When the freeze is on, you need heat. Like vindaloo heat. Most Indian restaurants in America are apologetic in their spicing and have the idea that Americans prefer their food fast and far from furious. What could give anybody that impression? India Pavilion’s fish vindaloo isn’t the pissed-off-the-chef, blow-your-socks-off type — ah, thankfully. But it doesn’t wimp out, either. Rather than heat with chili-chili-chili, it bathes big chunks of cod in a warming blanket of several spices. There’s heat, but not of the self-flagellation variety.
Tucked off the main drag of Mass Ave., India Pavilion has stood in Central Square for 31 years. This fall saw the Pavilion expand into the adjacent storefront and revamped to a white backdrop with plush plum upholstered banquettes and seating. It’s still small, just 95 seats, but there’s a sense of modernity that carries over to the slimmer menu. Less menu options means ingredients are fresher due to quicker turnover. There are still plenty of moderately priced options, though, from vindaloo and tandoori to delicate masalas and hearty rice-based biryani.
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The perfect foil for a hot curry isn’t (tons of) lager, but kulfi. India Pavilion’s rich, creamy kulfi — “Indian ice cream” — is high- ly flavored with carda-mom — an exquisitely fragrant ground seed with an effervescent quality — and chopped pistachios. Kulfi isn’t whipped like ice cream, so it’s denser with a consistency similar to frozen custard.