Tricks of the ‘Trade’
By now, you know that Trade is the new restaurant from Rialto’s Jody Adams. We know you know because, just three weeks after opening, the place was packed. As Adams is a culinary name of renown, this is perhaps not surprising. Perfectly positioned steps from the FD, trade at Trade is bullishly good.
Trade’s industrial-themed interior is stark and minimalist and framed by the Rose Kennedy Greenway, which provides a winsome view from this historic old mercantile building’s giant windows. The grand entranceway’s enormous pillars speak as highly of the captains of industry past as Trade’s food does of Adams and former Rialto sous chef Andrew Hebert, now Trade’s executive chef.
Hebert’s execution is simple, but thoughtful.
An amazing mushroom, Gorgonzola and fig flatbread has a luscious, oily sage pesto; a plump ball of burrata cheese has a nice, sweet quince jam; roasted littlenecks mingle in a peppery nutty sauce with tasty roasted baby Brussel sprouts; and the magnificent pomegranate-glazed eggplant is rich and smooth with contrasting crisp flavors from capers and pine nuts.
Small plates and pizza aside, Trade is most definitely a place for dinner, not just grazing. There’s zesty roasted lobster with a piquant artichoke aioli, which is finished with a seasoning squirt of lemon juice. There’s hearty short rib (all meats are naturally raised) topped with minced black olives and served with roasted sunchokes. Some fecund pickled daikon radish provides a perfect counterpoint.
Dessert doesn’t disappoint either: A rustic apple crostada with thick, gooey caramel is as delightfully simple as a creamy cranberry fool, which is served with a cardamom-spiced flaky biscuit and is fabulously sophisticated. It’s a fool by name, but not by nature.