Bill Brodsky comes in for Landing

City Landing combines sophisticated playfulness with earthy realism — and good food.

In defining chef and owner Bill Brodsky’s vision at his newly opened City Landing, we might look to the banquettes for clues. Lining the walls and some interior islands, too, the upholstery pairs a fabulous lime green and white optical-illusion pattern with a plain brown that’s almost the shade of dirt. It’s the right amount of sophisticated playfulness anchored by earthy realism.

That goes for the food — including the separate dedicated vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free menu — too.

Brodsky tops Parmesan-bru-leed spinach and ricotta dump-lings with amazing poached Shimeji mushrooms, and finishes them with crisp fried artichoke sprinkles that add texture and oniony flavor. Artichoke scratchings also show up on a tender flounder crusted with a flavorful dice of tomatoes and al dente asparagus. A smattering of mustard-Champagne beurre blanc adds a tangy edge. The calf’s liver with braised leeks is completed by a chunky piece of ham and a porcini-and-potato pierogi.  

City Landing’s pizzetas may just become legendary. A white cheesy base topped with portobellos has a great chewy crust.

Another soon-to-be rave is the “Bostonian Shrimp n’ Grits,” a play on Southern comfort via Massachusetts-milled cornmeal spiked with rock shrimp (surely the tastiest shrimp), roasted peppers and a touch of smoky-spicey linguica. Brodsky isn’t shy when it comes to bold, rich dishes, but he knows balance. To be bold without brashness is the key here.

Care for a snack?

City Landing takes over the original Sel de la Terre spot on Boston’s Long Wharf and retains its spacious sidewalk patio overlooking the now-verdant Rose F. Kennedy Greenway. In the bar and lounge, Brodsky’s “Bar Crumbs” small-plate menu adds snacks like pork belly sliders with pickled ramps and fried chicken and waffles with traditional white sawmill gravy. Did we mention how rich they are? Not the bad kind, though: Entrees range from $15 to $39.


News
Entertainment
Sports
Lifestyle
Local

DA: Homeless man severely beat by men in…

Two former college football players pleaded not guilty to the alleged severe beating of a homeless man in Allston earlier this year.

National

Hamas, Abbas's PLO announce reconciliation agreement

The Gaza-based Islamist group Hamas and President Mahmoud Abbas's Palestine Liberation Organization (PLO) agreed on Wednesday to a unity pact.

Local

Reports: Dead man pulled from water at Boston's…

A dead man was reportedly pulled from the water at Boston's Long Wharf Wednesday afternoon, according to the Boston Fire Department.

Local

Primark to make US debut in Boston

Dublin retailer Primark will make its U.S. debut with a store at the former Filene's site in Boston.

Television

‘Survivor: Cagayan’ recap: Episode 9

It was only an hour-long episode, but there's a lot to cover this week. The drama of Survivor strikes again as the identity of the…

Going Out

Thursty: Revamped Audubon is back in action

Having been a long time fan of Trina's Starlite Lounge in Inman Square, one of my only complaints about the place is that there's only…

Entertainment

Here's what to do in Boston this weekend

MUSIC Huun Huur Tu Friday, 8 p.m. First Church in Cambridge 11 Garden St., Cambridge $28, 617-876-4275 www.worldmusic.org This group comes from the tiny nation…

Television

TV watch list, Wednesday, April 23: 'Suburgatory,' 'Modern…

'Suburgatory' The men of "Suburgatory" go camping and Tessa mentors a social outcast in a Miss Chatswin contest, which brings her, once again, into conflict…

MLB

MLB video highlights: Red Sox top Yankees, 5-1

John Lackey shines, Pineda ejected in Red Sox win

NHL

Bruins - Red Wings Game 4 preview: Boston…

Bruins - Red Wings Game 4 preview: Boston greedy for more dominance

MLB

Fantasy baseball: Searching for early season prospects

It’s relatively rare for a mediocre 30-year-old hitter to suddenly go nuts offensively for 162 games. That’s why minor league prospects are so exciting.

U.S. Soccer

NYCFC 'targeting' US international Mix Diskerud

Metro New York has learned Mix Diskerud has drawn “interest” from the expansion MLS side, NYCFC.

Style

Pippa Middleton's Etsy pick: Golden Thread Jewelry

Get a look at the jewelry Pippa Middleton loves and find out how you can buy it too.

Parenting

What every parent needs to know to get…

Mom and author of "Small Talk," Tracey Blake, shares her five practical tips to help you develop your children's language skills.

Sex

Subway crush: Meet your soulmate on your commute

Read about a couple who has been 40 years after meeting on the train.

Tech

Happy birthday, Game Boy! The handheld console turns…

Nintendo's Game Boy turns 25 this week. To commemorate, we look at some of its better games, like "Tetris" and "The Legend of Zelda: Link’s Awakening."