The Taco Truck delivers on delicioso grub

From left, Michelle Rioult, Seriana Rioult and Beryle Kaltofen chow down on tacos from the Taco Truck at the SoWa market.

Call it a moveable feast. The Taco Truck debuted in Boston this summer and now pops up at various locations — Boston Public Library, City Hall Plaza, SoWa Sunday Open Market. It’s easily located via its website or Facebook page. Besides tacos, the menu includes tortas, salads and, newly added for the colder months, soup. Still, tacos are the main point.

Taco lovers were dealt a huge blow when Tacos Lupita in Somerville changed owners a few years back. While the Taco Truck’s soft tacos don’t live up to old Lupita’s scrumptious standards, they’re innovative and quite particular. Chicken is marinated with guajillo pepper, which gives a mild spice kick that’s offset by tangy onions pickled with lime.

The classic carnitas Michoacan simply pairs tender, rich slow-cooked pork with the clean flavor of cilantro. Hongos, which doesn’t translate appetizingly into English, includes a pungent mix of mushrooms seasoned with the unusually flavored Mexican digestive herb, epazote, and topped with more of those lime-pickled onions — these really are incredibly tangy! The aguacate tostado tops spice-rubbed fried avocado with black beans and sesame seeds. Add sides: The black beans — wonderfully soupy and barely salted — and the sweetened fried plantains are the perfect foils for big flavors elsewhere.

One ingredient sets the Taco Truck apart from many, though: Good intentions. The truck uses propane (less nasty fuel emissions); there are recycling and composting bins; packaging is biodegradable; and only naturally raised meats and humanely slaughtered chicken are used. For fast food from a small company, that is hugely progressive.

What the truck?

The Taco Truck, which also operates in New York, didn’t make the cut for the Food Truck Throwdown finals in Dewey Square this Saturday. Maybe choosing a city to align with might have posed too much of a problem?

In this competition, seven food trucks from Boston are pitched against seven from New York City.
The Throwdown was organized by Sara Ross of Somerville’s Kickass Cupcakes. Kick ass, Boston!

Food Truck Throwdown
Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Dewey Square, No cover.

If you go
Taco Truck
Entrees: $11-$13
Check website for location


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