Nosh On: Getting the show on at Tavern Road
The DiBiccari’s pan-Mediterranean menu is equally expansive but well edited. An array of interesting side dishes is more than just accompaniments to the weekly beastie and form a fleshless fantasy. Puddingy Parmesan polenta has a soft poached egg; grilled broccoli rabe with vanilla – unusual – is pulled together with hazelnuts; a tangy lemon artichoke risotto is enriched with ripe Tallegio; and wonderful sautéed mixed mushrooms with spring carrots are glazed with soy sauce. How does soy work on a menu with no Asian interests? Rosemary is tossed in for a European twist. Amazing.
Elsewhere, a simple roasted red pepper soup has a drizzle of oil, a scattering of walnuts, and Maine crab stuffed arancini. Among the small bites, gooey centered fried chickpea bites made with a Parmesan-garbanzo batter only fail because there aren’t enough on the plate.
Of course, there’s charcuterie and other meat dishes, say a Flat Iron steak with a mildly spiced red curry sauce. But, so far, there’s not a burger in sight. Welcome to the Innovation District, then.
343 Congress St., Boston