Dining at Water Street in Edgartown is a multi-sensory experience

GOB_NoshWaterStreetCrediEliDagostino_0627
Chef Shaun Brian Sells at work / credit: Eli Dagostino

You could almost forget the food and just drink in the view through the wraparound windows of the Harbor View Hotel’s aptly named restaurant, Water Street. You could, but it would be a mistake. Because, as idyllic as Water’s Street’s panorama is — picturesque views of the Edgartown lighthouse, the harbor, Chappaquiddick beach’s striped cabanas, old New England in miniature — their new summer menu might be even better. Their new fare is eclectic, even experimental, and commands attention.

Water Street’s chef Shaun Brian Sells balances the locavore movement’s back-to-naturism with molecular gastronomy’s scientific touches. The fruits of this marriage are evident in white balsamic pearls that invigorate the tongue, while his man-made vinegary caviar somehow piques the intellect. All senses are excited.

Here, the beauty lies mostly in simplicity. For summer, Sells lines up refreshing cucumber gazpacho with a smoked crema; a squid ink linguine with locally dug clams in a white wine and peppercorn broth; and pan-seared diver scallops with crisped fatty pork cheek, piquant watermelon radish, and a white miso dashi.

Sells and his team butcher and cure meat from a locally raised pig in-house and then slice the rich meat wafer-thin for their fine charcuterie platter. Fatty jowl, marbled shoulder, and leaner loin display varying degrees of lard and muscle, and are paired with in-house pickled vegetables.

On the sweeter side, a delicate panna cotta contains a passion fruit jam and peppery gingerbread, and a chocolate pate is paired with meringue and swirls of tangy balsamic caramel. Freshly made strawberry doughnuts and cocoa cupcakes are on the menu (which changes weekly) for Water Street’s Sunday brunch. After dinner here, one is tempted to get a room at the Harbor View and stick around for those doughnuts come morning light.



News
Entertainment
Sports
Lifestyle
Local

MAP: New York City Street Closures August 22,…

The Percy Sutton Harlem 5K and NYC Family Health Walk-a-thon and Pakistan Day Parade and Fair will cause traffic delays and street closures in New York City this weekend. Plan…

International

U.N. nuclear inquiry on Iran seen making slow…

The U.N. nuclear watchdog appears to have made only limited progress so far in getting Iran to answer questions about its suspected atomic bomb research, diplomatic sources said on Friday,…

National

Violence-weary Missouri town sees second night of calm

By Nick Carey and Carey GillamFERGUSON Mo. (Reuters) - The violence-weary town of Ferguson, Missouri, saw a second straight evening of relative calm on Thursday…

National

Journalist James Foley's parents, after call with pope,…

The parents of James Foley, the American journalist killed by Islamic State militants in Iraq, on Friday called for prayer and support to free the remaining captives held by Islamic…

Television

Recap: 'The Knick,' Season 1, Episode 3, 'The…

The third episode of Steven Soderbergh's "The Knick" finds Dr. Thackery (Clive Owen) meeting an old flame and other characters embracing self-destruction.

Music

Webcast: Watch Polyphonic Spree live on Sunday Aug.…

Polyphonic Spree singer Tim DeLaughter sits with Metro Music Editor Pat Healy for a chat and then the big band performs live. It begins on Sunday at 9:30 pm

Movies

Matthew Weiner on directing 'Are You Here' and…

"Mad Men" creator Matthew Weiner discusses his movie "Are You Here," his history writing comedy and the tiny movie he directed in 1996 you can't see.

Movies

Michael Chiklis on his football past and 'When…

Michael Chiklis remembers playing football in high school and how that prepped him to play a coach in "When the Game Stands Tall."

NFL

Fantasy football draft guide: How to draft your…

Many are wondering if we’re entering a new age in fantasy football drafting — one where running backs take a backseat.

NFL

Jets vs. Giants: 3 Giants storylines to watch

The Giants have plenty to work on as they reach the dress rehearsal preseason game Friday night against the rival Jets.

NFL

Jets vs. Giants: 3 Jets storylines to watch

Metro looks at three Jets storylines to watch as they play the Giants Friday.

NFL

Giants expected to work Corey Washington into first-team…

The day of reckoning for the Giants' fringe players will fall upon them Friday night against the Jets.

Sex

Big weddings may lead to long-term happiness

Dreaming of a big wedding? A new study indicates that the longer your guest list, the happier you’ll be in the long run. l A…

Sex

Online dating for every generation

Frank Jackson and his mother Maggie are like lots of modern families: They have dinner together regularly, keep each other updated on their lives —…

Wellbeing

Going green could be the key to getting…

If we could just pursue the things that would actually make us happy, we could help the environment too, according to a New York researcher.…

Tech

Siren: A new dating app that puts women…

Online dating can be brutal, especially for single women. Noting that many women hate wading through inappropriate messages and photos, two tech entrepreneurs decided to…