Waban Kitchen strives for culinary perfection

Executive Chef Jakob White // credit: Erin Baldassari
Executive chef Jakob White mans the helm at Waban Kitchen. Credit: Erin Baldassari

Waban Kitchen is the second restaurant from Jeff Fournier (nearby 51 Lincoln’s chef/owner), whose artwork hangs on the walls of this hidden gem, handily situated just opposite the Waban train stop.

Fournier still helms 51 Lincoln’s kitchen, leaving chef Jakob White — who has worked under Fournier since he graduated culinary school — to take the helm at Waban. It’s a post he’s clearly suited for, as the young restaurant’s (open just 10 months) 10 tables fill up quickly and its bustling bar provides an alternate perch at which to try the menu’s host of self-described “perfect” dishes. First, Waban’s Perfect Deviled Eggs. Served as four halves instead of the standard trio, they’re good but fairly unremarkable, save for a little dot of caviar as garnish.

The Perfect Green Salad, on the other hand, strives to live up to its name. The sizeable salad has texture, a mix of barely chopped crisp and fluffy lettuces topped with crunchy toasted pine nuts. It’s perfectly seasoned and lightly dressed, leaving chunky juliennes of preserved Meyer lemon peel and spicy raw garlic to deliver occasional but huge hits of sharp flavor. Even its aroma, pre-first bite, is intoxicating.

Onward in our pursuit of dining perfection, we find a seasonal local striped bass served with a creamy salmarilglio, a southern Italian fish sauce (like an eggless, vegan hollandaise) that delivers a kick of spicy garlic. The generously sized, pesto-topped filet is accompanied by thick slices of seedy cucumber, salted and watering to form a jus, cherry tomatoes and jasmine rice. It is a fairly idyllic amalgam of local seasonal produce.

Eating at Waban kitchen should come with a pre-dinner note: “Save room for pie!” Apart from an extraordinary cinnamon and rosemary ice cream, dessert here is all about the pie. Their pies are baked in-house each day and include such delights as a peanut butter mousse topped with dark chocolate ganache and served with a large dollop of sweetened crème fraiche. If not a perfectly sweet ending to a meal, it’s one that comes close.

Waban Kitchen
1649 Beacon St., Newton
Entrees: $24-$36
617-451-6372
wabankitchen.com



News
Entertainment
Sports
Lifestyle
National

New Apple iPhone to have 'mobile wallet' function:…

(Reuters) - Apple Inc plans to enable its next iPhone to become a mobile wallet by allowing owners to securely make mobile payments in a…

Money

Second Shift: Balancing school, work and a side…

See how a Brooklynite balances getting her PhD while working two other jobs.

Local

NYPD: Early morning shootings reported along West Indian…

Several shootings were reported in the early morning hours before the West Indian Day Parade, according to the NYPD. A 55-year-old man was shot and…

Money

Investing: Buying low, selling high

Learn how rebalancing can help you be successful in investing.

Gossip

Who is Ashlee Simpson’s new husband anyway?

Find out five things about Ashlee Simpson's new husband, Evan Ross.

Entertainment

Jennifer Lawrence and more: The big names on…

The names of more than 100 famous actresses, musicians and athletes were included in a list of purported hacking victims, nude photos of whom were…

Movies

Interview: Juliette Lewis on playing low-key and quiet…

"Kelly & Cal" star Juliette Lewis talks about being drawn to unlikeable characters, how she herself is quiet and being young and working with Scorsese.

Television

Whit Stillman: TV show 'The Cosmopolitans' is a…

Filmmaker Whit Stillman ("The Last Days of Disco," "Damsels in Distress") talks about his Amazon pilot show "The Cosmopolitans" and doing TV.

NFL

3 things we learned in the Giants preseason…

The final score didn’t matter — a 16-13 win by the Giants — but it would’ve been nice to finally see Big Blue’s new-look offense get on track.

NFL

NFL Power Rankings: Seahawks, Broncos, Patriots, 49ers start…

NFL Power Rankings: Seahawks, Broncos, Patriots start at top

U.S. Soccer

5 facts about new England captain Wayne Rooney

Manchester United striker Wayne Rooney was named as the new England captain by coach Roy Hodgson on Thursday.

NFL

Jets vs. Eagles: 3 things to watch

A win on Thursday night at the Eagles would give the Jets a 3-1 record and just their second winning preseason under head coach Rex Ryan.

Travel

10 free apps to make traveling easier

Finding the nearest bathroom, calculating currency exchanges and locating your departure gate must have been difficult for travelers of previous generations. But we wouldn't know,…

Travel

How to get a seat upgrade to business…

It used to be much easier to upgrade your coach seat to business or even first class, but rigid rules and tighter schedules have made…

Career

The number of telecommuters is expected to nearly…

Until a few years ago, telecommuting was not considered a realistic option at most companies. But with technological advances like high-speed Internet and smartphones, more…

Wellbeing

Your new food ally to ward off type…

For people who may be headed for type 2 diabetes, regularly eating pistachios might help turn the tide, according to a small nutrition trial from…