Cosby, Coogi and Fonzie: Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone always begins it’s show with a pre-show treat. For instance, last year it was truffled soft pretzels. This time the venue is filled with the unmistakable smell of fried dough. Guests are inhaling powdered doughnuts, comfort food on a freezing day. So much for all of those New Year’s health kicks, eh? As I make my way to my seat, I notice a small throng of photographers snapping a cluster of people front row. I assume they must be celebrities. But as I get closer, I see that it’s Bryanboy, Susie Bubble, The Man Repeller’s Leandra Medine and The Blonde Salad’s Chiara Ferragni. So, are bloggers this season’s celebrities? With the exception of a Swizz Beatz and Karolina Kurkova sighting, today’s FROWs are looking light on people who are famous outside of the world of fashion.
I’m really curious to know what cultural references creative directors Marcus Wainwright and David Neville had tacked on their mood board for this collection. The names embroidered on the back of Joan Smalls and Georgia May Jagger’s bowling jackets are pure Fifties, Happy Days kitsch. Meanwhile, the knits look very Cosby sweaterish, with a little Nineties, Biggie Smalls, ‘Coogi sweater now’ mixed in. And yet, the collection doesn’t feel retro. Instead, it looks like a natural extension of the cool, urban uniform they’ve already established in past seasons with a range of tailoring in paint splattered graphics, slouchy silk dresses and shaggy, textured outerwear in plaids and checks. All the layering, wool and shearling is so polar vortex appropriate. These are exactly the kinds of things a girl would want to wear right now. But I can’t say the same for the footwear, which looks too try-hard and distracts from the ease of the clothes. Slouchy, drawstring knee-high leather boots really?
A sea of black and gray, made up of It bloggers galore (Leandra Medine, The Blonde Salad’s Chiara Ferragni, Hanneli Mustaparta, etc.), power editors from both sides of the Atlantic (Anna Wintour, Jefferson Hack) and fashion insider-approved models and socials (Liberty Ross, Karolina Kurkova, Annabelle Dexter-Jones and more)
Dancehall ruled the pre-show playlist, but the show itself was all high-energy instrumentals
The dominant trends
Shaggy textured outerwear, loose grunge-inspired layering
What this will mean for your wardrobe in six months
If Rag & Bone has anything to do with it, you’ll want your coats and jackets nubby and your knitwear warm and cosy