Dries Van Noten gets PFW off to a decorative start

Dries Van Noten : Runway - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2014-2015

Wednesday

3:27 p.m.
The lineup of looks — graphic, voluminous coats, trousers and dresses in hyper-bright florals and optical illusion patterns — is more colorful than last season’s memorable palette of gold and navy. But what stands out to me most is his use of trimmings and embellishments. There are artificial flowers attached to dresses and blouses like three-dimensional extensions of the pattern, and loads of sequins, which completely cover some looks to the point of blinding brightness. This comes after a week of flashy, break-the-bank decoration in Milan and seems to solidify a new moment, one that’s saying the age of austerity might really be over (or at least in the fashion world).

In the past, Dries has used pattern, color and decoration in a more subdued, sober way, such as the navy and maroon striped fringed skirts he did last fall that have been so popular on the street style circuit this year. But the humor, glamour and flamboyance on the runway right now is the polar opposite. Because when you’ve got a large branch of red lilies sewn to your silver sequin dress, you can’t be taking life too seriously, can you? These clothes are upbeat and, dare I say, cheery — epitomizing the mood fall ’14 seems to be in as a whole. I have the feeling this is just the beginning of all of the glitz and dazzle the week has in store.

The mood
Fashion! Fun florals! Flamboyant sequins! Drama! All with exclamation marks, because that’s exactly how loudly these clothes were talking.

The major trends
Volume, three-dimensional trimmings, tactile finishes, wide-leg trousers and midi skirts.

What this will mean for your wardrobe in six months’ time
Fashion has officially returned to the age of excess. Budget accordingly.



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