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11:11 a.m. There are roughly six men hanging from the ceiling at Carven. Technically, they’re sitting in lighting rigs from where they’ll be controlling the spotlights for the show. But still, there’s a grown man hanging from the ceiling, in a heavy piece of machinery, above my head. How old is this building again?
11:25 a.m. Guillaume Henry has referenced a decade other than the Sixties this season and I appreciate that. Sometimes, variety is an under-appreciated thing in fashion. His Forties shapes and silhouettes have a film noir sensibility about them, helped along by the moody lighting provided by my friends up top. Interestingly, this collection presents a more grown-up look than the girlier, whimsical fare he’s shown in the past. Not that the feminine elements are missing altogether. The glittery cupid’s arrows that appear on his flippy, graphic mini dresses and jackets are quintessential Henry. But the strongest looks are the longest: straight, midi-length skirt suits and belted coat dresses and jackets that look like the stuff of Ingrid Bergman movies, with a modern twist.
The scene Soggy fashion insiders (it’s pouring out) and "Girls" star Zosia Mamet.
The mood To quote the press notes, it’s about "a woman who diverted a 40’s wardrobe, with an accurate sense of shape and attributes."
The major trends Longer midi skirts, shiny embellishments, shades of blue, and experiments with texture.
The playlist Moody, retro, Shazam-defying French music.