There’s an admirable democracy to New York City’s food scene. We wait months for the privilege of paying over $400 (per person) for dinner in the same city that spawned the fast-casual revolution. Just look at anytime Shake Shack offers a one-off burger.
This time, however, the cows could rest easy, because we finally got to taste why David Chang renounced ramen: His new chain-restaurant-to-be, Fuku, opened in the space that used to be his first Momofuku Noodle Bar, 163 First Ave.
It serves just two items — three if you count the side of French fries ($3), which the consensus is you should not — a fried chicken sandwich ($8), which can be ordered Koreano style with slaw, and a farro-citrus salad ($6). The fully liquor-licensed drinks menu, meanwhile, is eight deep, with a Michelada worth exploring.