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Fashion going full circle (VIDEO)

The reigning czar of New York Fashion Week — aka Marc Jacobs — uses polka dots, lace and latex for a polished and futuristic collection that is sure to set the tone for fall.<br /><br />

The reviews

1 Rodarte
The slightly bohemian collection was quieter and
more wearable than the gold glamazons Kate and Laura Mulleavy created
last season. Models walked down the runway in long, expertly constructed
wool swing coats, which were layered over slightly longer, floaty
chiffon dresses in neutral colors. Another series of looks featured a
ponyskin top and skirt worn over a chiffon dress. The details were
densely layered too: geometric shaped embellishments, cut-outs, floral
appliques, sequin and crystal embroidery. The collection left no doubt
of the sisters’ maturing craftsmanship. –Kenya Hunt

2 Zero + Maria Cornejo
“I realized that the greatest
luxury is to have the freedom to express one’s own point of view,” Maria
Cornejo is quoted as saying in her press notes. Her graceful clothes
were for those forward-thinking women who know which styles work best
for them and don’t necessarily dress according to the season’s trends.
Each piece had a certain minimalist quality to it, but with off-kilter
details that prevented them from being boring, such as her coats, which
looked clean and simple in front and revealed a different fabric or
silhouette in the back. –KH

3 Marc Jacobs





The always-directional Marc Jacobs took a stiff right turn away from all of those pretty diaphanous dresses last season. His new collection was about constructed looks in futuristic silhouettes with loads of circle-shaped sequins, paillettes and latex appliques. That means you can pretty much guarantee that the season’s trend for shiny looks will be huge next fall (because if Marc Jacobs signs off on an idea, it’s sure to influence everyone). And are polka dots the new stripes? The theme not only touched the clothes, but pert, circular hats, furry gloves and graphic hosiery as well. His dress and high-waisted skirt lengths were higher (knee-length) compared to last season’s hem lines. That could also signal a change yet to come. –KH

4 Tracy Reese
The romantic pleated maxi skirt/chunky sweater combo that opened the show was so chic and cozy, you’d want to wear it right now. Other highlights: bohemian tops and dresses, smart black trousers and one chic capelet. Reese said she wanted to bring a touch of glamour this season, hence the beading on a black cocktail number. Some of her choice of patterns, like the lava lamp-looking blobs, however, were head-scratchers. –Tina Chadha

5 Jenny Packham




No matter what fancy occasion you have coming up, Packham will make sure you own the night. Her party dresses, in a palette of mostly neutrals and metallics, came both short and long, sexy or goddess-like, and featured intricate beadwork in cobweb designs and pretty, romantic fabrics. –TC

6 Betsey Johnson




Johnson delivered her usual dose of sensory overload in two parts this season. The first, titled “Black Tag,” featured dresses in a plethora of patterns (plaid, floral, leopard) and silhouettes (Victorian, ’50s, long and flowy) all worn over sheer animal print tights and tops. Then came the $100-and-under “Pink Patch” collection. “Real people” modeled the line wearing Betsey-esque wigs; the blondes were in dresses that looked like they came off a sales rack — the kind you have fun digging for treasures in. –TC

Trends

Fur coats are getting longer for autumn/winter ’11 as shown by Donna Karan, Chado Ralph Rucci and Marc by Marc Jacobs, which all produced full-length, belted versions. They were all very glamorous in a “Dynasty” kind of way. –KH

 
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