Almost 10 years ago, Leah McSweeney started Married to the Mob, a streetwear line for “girls that have balls, basically.”

Riffing off the guys’ streetwear brand Supreme, McSweeney designed a shirt emblazoned with the words “Supreme Bitch.”

McSweeney grew up in New York City in the boy-dominated skater world, and says she had to “deal with this boys’ club mentality.” The shirt was a response to that.

“It was kind of like taking a shot back at them,” she explained.

McSweeney’s clothing is doing well: after Rihanna appeared in a photo wearing a Supreme Bitch hat, McSweeney said the orders really started coming in strong.

Supreme’s owner, James Jebbia, is now suing McSweeney for $10 million. McSweeney said she was surprised because Jebbia actually approved the t-shirt nearly 10 years ago, and carried it in his second store, Union.

Jebbia could not be reached for comment, but he’s previously told New York Magazine that while he did approve the shirt, the fact that the design has spread to hats and mugs and other items turns what he expected to be a one-off riff into “trying to build her whole brand by piggybacking” off his brand.

McSweeney has found big-league representation in a partnership between civil rights lawyer Norman Siegel and trademark lawyer Edward Rosenthal. She said she feels it’s important to stick to her guns, as the message behind Mob has always been to stand up for yourself.

“I don’t like being bullied,” McSweeney said. “And I don’t have to be, either.”

Follow Danielle Tcholakian on Twitter @danielleiat

The post Battle of the (Supreme) sexes appeared first on Metro.us.

Summer camp doesn’t have to be all about yarn crafts and popsicle sticks. Your kids don’t have to travel to a sprawling forest or be devoured by mosquitoes to have a memorable summer camp experience. These unique day camps cater to a variety of interests and take place right here in NYC.

Walk the catwalk at Fashion Camp NYC

This week-long intensive day camp is designed for teen fashionistas. Campers learn the ins and outs of the retail industry from experts working in design, merchandising and more. The week includes seminars, group projects and field trips.
Starts July 15. Fashioncampnyc.com

Rawk out at Girls Rock! Camp
This all-girls music camp features performances by working musical artists and workshops on topics ranging from songwriting to DJing. The philosophy encourages experimentation and collaboration with other campers.
Starts July 29. http://williemaerockcamp.org

Build a robot butler (maybe) at Brooklyn Robot Foundry
Week-long courses teach young scientists how to build and use robots. Activities vary based on interest and age, but robots are a sure bet. Starts June 12. http://brooklynrobotfoundry.com

Shape up at Exerblast
This high-tech adventure day camp combines fitness with gadgets. Kids design their own obstacle courses, solve puzzles, and rack up points to cash in for prizes.
Starts June 6. www.exerblast.org

Nerd out hardcore at Backpacks and Binoculars
A camp for lively urban explorers ages 5 – 10. Campers travel through all five NYC boroughs, visit major cultural institutions and parks, and embark on walking tours in a variety of neighborhoods. Activities throughout the week focus on STEM education.
Starts June 13. www.backpacksandbinoculars.com

The post Summer camp, without the mosquitoes appeared first on Metro.us.

Gudrun Sjoden wants to see New Yorkers embracing green. And red. And blue. And orange. “Often in fashion and in the shops it’s just a lot of black and gray,” says the 71-year-old designer, who herself prefers brightly patterned garments and neon-rimmed spectacles.

“But from my experience, there are a lot of women who want to have colors in their wardrobe.” Well, Manhattan, watch out: The relentlessly cheery Swede, who started her eponymous fashion company in 1974, is finally bringing her whimsical designs to the States, with a new store that opened last week in the hottest of haute neighborhoods: SoHo.

It’s a bold move for the low- to mid-priced brand. Gudrun Sjoden’s Greene Street neighbors include cool fashion favorites like Isabel Marant, Opening Ceremony and Diane von Furstenberg, which stand in stark contrast to Sjoden’s colorful, folk-inspired clothing and home goods.

Her Manhattan flagship similarly reflects the label’s bohemian spirit, as well as its green ethos — about 60 percent of its garments are made with organic fibers. The walls are painted an earthy olive-green and dove gray, and the wooden floors are adorned with hand-stenciled flowers. And Sjoden herself has hand-painted the vintage shabby-chic furniture with birds and other sweet designs. “It will be quite cozy,” she says.

Sjoden is not intimidated by the more rarefied stores in the neighborhood. “We have quite a lot of American customers who buy through the website,” the eternal optimist says. “So I think it will be a success.”

Channel your inner boheme
For her spring collection, Sjoden has taken inspiration from Scandinavia and its folk art. Here’s a look at some of the pieces.

1. A leaf on a palm by the Arabian Sea formed the basis for several of Sjoden’s patterns for spring, including the one on this gently crinkled split-personality dress.
Sus & Dus dress, $100

2. Inspired by Scandinavian folk art, this floral dress — made with organic cotton — includes a richly embroidered bib and hand-quilted seams. Hanna         eco-cotton dress, $125

3. Graphic pieces scattered with polka dots, stripes and triangles harken back to the 1950s — and are made to be mixed and matched. Ziki linen/cotton shawl,

The post Gudrun Sjoden opens in SoHo appeared first on Metro.us.

After four years of late-night shopping and free cocktails every September, Fashion’s Night Out takes a break in the U.S.

The event, which will still be take place in select international cities, will not be held September 2013.

The sponsors of the event, Vogue, the Council of Fashion Designers of America and NYC & Co., decided to put the event on hiatus so designers and retailers could focus their budgets on specific projects that fit their objectives, according to Women’s Wear Daily.

Fashion’s Night Out, which launched in 2009, was a celebration of shopping in what was at the time needed to jump-start the recession-hit economy in the city.

The 2009 event was a hit so it was held again in 2010, 2011 and 2012. In the four years, Fashion’s Night Out expanded to stores in 500 cities nationwide and 30 cities across the world.

Since then the event has become a big, street festival-style party, where even celebrities come out to play.

“Fashion’s Night Out brought great energy, optimism and enthusiasm to the city’s retailers, who make up a thriving part of our economy. We can always count on fashion industry leaders to use their creativity and savvy to benefit New York City – whether they are helping us recover from a national recession, a national disaster or whatever the next challenge may be,” Mayor Michael Bloomberg said.

Over the past four years, Fashion’s Night Out raised more than $1 million for NYC Aids Fund, and Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA told Women’s Wear Daily that they will continue to support this cause in other ways.

While the September party has been canceled in the United States, 19 other countries will be participating in 2013, including first-timers Thailand and Ukraine.

Follow Mary Ann Georgantopoulos on Twitter @marygeorgant

The post Fashion’s Night Out goes on hiatus in the US appeared first on Metro.us.

H&M jacket, $50, www.hm.com

MiH Jeans The Leather Biker, $990, http://us.mih-jeans.com

3.1 Phillip Lim Scrapbook Floral Corded moto jacket, $1,195, www.shopbop.com

Prabal Gurung for Target leather jacket, $200, www.target.com

Rebecca Taylor leather moto jacket, $995, www.rebeccataylor.com

Lovely in Linen motorcycle jacket, $148, www.freepeople.com

The post Rebel without a cause: moto jackets appeared first on Metro.us.

All that glitters is gold? In the case of these Oscar gowns — yes. Jessica Chastain shimmered in custom Armani Prive (her flawless, flowing locks also added to her glamorous look). Catherine Zeta-Jones rocked a gold Zuhair Murad gown, while Renee Zellweger wore her go-to designer, a flawlessly-tailored Carolina Herrera. Halle Berry and Stacy Keibler both wore art-deco inspired gowns, with Berry in custom Versace and Keibler in a glittery dress by Naeem Khan.

The post Metallic dresses ruled the Oscar red carpet appeared first on Metro.us.

Is blue your favorite color? Do you like wearing so much blue people mistake you for a mailman? You’re in luck.

On Tuesday, the U.S. Postal Service announced plans to release a fashion line for men.

The line will be called “Rain Heat & Snow,” in honor of the Postal Service’s unofficial motto “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.”

The Postal Service has teamed up with Cleveland-based fashion apparel company, Wahconah Group, Inc.

“This agreement will put the Postal Service on the cutting edge of functional fashion,” said Postal Service Corporate Licensing Manager Steven Mills in an official press release. “The main focus will be to produce Ran Heat & Snow apparel and accessories using technology to create ‘smart apparel’ also known as wearable electronics.”

The new line will only include menswear. There are plans for a women’s line down the road, but there’s no date set for that. Sorry, ladies.

If you’re wondering how the U.S. Postal Service plan on paying for this since they can’t even afford to deliver our mom’s care packages anymore on Saturdays, well, they won’t. CNN reports that the Postal Service won’t have to pay to produce the apparel but will receive a small percentage of the profits. The clothes will be sold in “premier department and specialty stores.”

The Postal Service is moving on up. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.

Follow Mary Ann Georgantopoulos on Twitter @marygeorgant

The post U.S. Postal Service is launching a new fashion line appeared first on Metro.us.

Name: Bora Hong
Occupation: Designer for Tory Burch
What she’s wearing: “I’m wearing a vintage jacket, a Stella McCartney dress, Marni shoes, H&M trousers, and the bag is by Celine.”

Name: Amber Atherton

Name:Leila Kashanipour
Occupation: Jewellery designer
What she’s wearing: “I’m wearing a Celine jacket, a Chanel bag, a Kenzo sweatshirt, a Maje shirt, Church’s shoes, LeiVanKash Jewellery and ASOS pants.”Her style: “I like to give my look a bit of an edge.”

Name: Soraya Bakhtiar
Occupation: Blogger
What she’s wearing: “I’m wearing an Isabel Marant coat, Balenciaga leggings and shoes, a Uniqlo top, an ASOS turban and the bag is by Chanel.”

Her style influences: “I take inspiration from the runways and street style.”

Name: Marianne Theodorsen
Occupation: The Style Devil

The post London Fashion Week: Street style appeared first on Metro.us.

Fashion can be confusing. Especially with New York Fashion Week happening for the last five days, there definitely have been some outfits that raised eyebrows.

John Galliano – as in the bad boy fashion designer who was caught on video proclaiming his love for Adolf Hitler and calling a woman a “dirty Jew face” in 2011 and subsequently fired as head designer for Christian Dior – was spotted in New York City dressed as what the New York Post describes as a Hasidic Jew.

The photo, which made made the front page of today’s Post,  described his look as “long jacket, hat and curly peyos or sidelocks.”

“He’s trying to embarrass people in the Jewish community and make money on clothes [while] dressed like people he has insulted,” Williamsburg community leader Isaac Abraham told the Post. “It looks like the hairstyle he added was done purposely to insult.”

The Anti-Defamation League (ADL) responded to today’s Post story saying the story was “a complete distortion” and “at worst a deliberate, malicious distortion,” and that Galliano is known for his eccentric attire. According to the ADL, this is just “John Galliano being John Galliano.”

ADL National Director, Abraham H. Foxman, issued the below statement:

The New York Post story is a ridiculous, absurd distortion. There is no truth to their accusation that John Galliano was dressed in Hasidic garb, and anyone familiar with the dress of traditional Orthodox Jews should not mistake what Galliano is wearing in the photograph as “Hasidic garb.” Hasidim do not wear fedora hats, pinstripe pants, blue jackets or an ascot tie.    
    

This is John Galliano being John Galliano. His dress is always eccentric and his hair is always worn long. This is, a t the very least, ignorance on the part of the reporters and editors at the Post, or at worst, a deliberate malicious distortion in an effort to sell newspapers.
    

For the past year and a half, Mr. Galliano has been on a pilgrimage to learn from and grow from his mistakes. Now people are trying to distort and destroy him. He has spent hours with me and others in the European Jewish community, including rabbis, and Holocaust scholars, in an effort to better understand himself and to learn from his past mistakes. He is trying very hard to atone.”

Follow Mary Ann Georgantopoulos on Twitter @marygeorgant

The post Did John Galliano dress up as a Hasidic Jew? appeared first on Metro.us.

Monday, Feb. 11

A model walks the runway at the Ohne Titel Fall 2013 fashion show.
Credit: Getty Images

1 p.m It’s been a week of textured, technical knits, which is an area of expertise for Ohne Titel. Flora Gill and Alexa Adams have developed a reputation for manipulating knitwear in creative ways over the years. So I’m curious to see what they come up with this go ’round. For the new season, it’s a weaving technique that appears on striking looks such as a shirt dress worn over a delicate wisp of a silk and sequin skirt. Graphically, the weaving idea also plays out through a series of grid prints on pajama-like trousers, blouses and dresses. Best of all, these stylish things look impressively easy to wear. These are intelligent clothes for girls’ girls like Tank magazine editor and street style celebrity and J.Crew campaign star Caroline Issa, who styled the show. Flora and Alexa’s growing fanbased should pleased.  Kenya Hunt

A model walks the runway at the Donna Karan Autumn Winter 2013 fashion show.
Credit: Getty Images

2:10 p.m. Donna Karan’s collections always remind me of dancers — something about the way her drapey, bias cut dresses elongate the body strike me as being very Martha Grahamesque. If the choreographer was alive today, she’d look at home in any one of Donna’s sinuous jet black skirts that dance and swirl about the hips. The impressive thing is that Donna’s managed to create skirt suits that look about as comfortable to wear as a pair of yoga pants. That’s because her tailored jackets come paired with easy, jersey skirts that are free of any kind of boxy, boardroom stiffness. It’s a classic Donna Karan solution to a common urban working woman’s problem. I’m not quite sold on her experiments with texture, however. A chocolate brown gown made of collaged shiny and matte silk panels with a leather bodice seems totake things a concept too far.  KH

A model walks the runway at the 3.1 Phillip Lim Autumn Winter 2013 fashion show.
Credit: Getty Images

3 p.m. I always like how 3.1 Phillip Lim gives you just the right amount of tomboy with just enough urban grit and isn’t afraid to stick a bow on it. Biker babes are on his mind for fall. Not so much Harley Davidson fanatics but rather stylish city dwellers who can’t wait to ditch their corporate obligations to hit the open road. Their uniform: chic motorcycle jackets, quilted shorts that hang perfectly so and tough pencil skirts embellished with zippers. These looks are grounded in reality with artful layering (preppy oxfords under shrunkencrewneck sweaters, under buttery leather jackets), clean lines (the boxy double-breasted coats) and a lovely color palette (sweet pink, warm tan andrich teal.) Over the knee open-toe leather boots and cross body bags take the cool quotient into high gear. As I walk out the door, I overhear editors chatting about which pieces are already on their wish lists. This is one of those times when I wish I didn’t have to wait a whole six months to buy.  Tina Chadha

Jill Sander
Credit: Getty Images

4:20 p.m. Still buzzing from Phillip Lim, I trek over to view Jil Sander Navy, which is being shown in an intimate presentation, complete with little civilized finger sandwiches, rather than a grand catwalk extravaganza like it’s big sister line in Milan. The collection is exactly what you’d expect from the minimalist house: simple, beautiful tailored clothes, and at more affordable price points to boot. It’s not hard to spot the winners: a fitted bomber, cropped shearling and shrunken wool pea coat. Gimme!  TC

A model walks the runway at the Thom Browne Autumn Winter 2013 fashion show.
Credit: Getty Images

5:10 p.m. Unlike Paris, New York’s runway shows aren’t known for theatrics, fantasy or drama. So a Thom Browne affair is always a little island of creativity, eccentricity and risk-taking in a sea of slick, white box productions. Bring it. This season, Thom Browne’s theatrical set is a winter scene of dead, snow capped trees that stand like prison bars around men in suits who are blindfolded and taped to beds at the wrists and ankles throughout the room.They’re lying there as if they’ve been hunted and dressed for dinner. Naturally, the spectacle is an Instagram magnet. Hardly anyone is sitting in their seats because they’re too busy photographing the bondage scene on their iPhones. Not that I can judge. I’ve already posted three filtered pics of it all on Twitter. No one seems to notice that Sandra Bernhard is in the room,sitting quietly in the front row.  KH

5:15 p.m. If Tim Burton directed an episode of Twin Peaks and set it in the 19th century, it might look like this. It’s pretty safe to assume that Thom’s dazed, slightly sinister looking models are coming in for the kill. How else to explain those long, blood raid nails? Dressed in elaborately constructed dresses and skirt suits that drawheavily on English references (Prince of Wales check and tweed, a mixture of Elizabethan and Victorian shapes), his pale faced corpse brides circle the men, dangling long-stem red roses the way I imagine a serial killer would finger an instrument of some kind of torture. Storyline guessing aside, the clothes are much more of a fantastical statement than anything else. This is not the place to look for wardrobe staples, unless your name is Helena Bonham Carter. But let’s not forget that Thom was the man behind Michelle Obama’s inaugural coat. Strip away the exaggerated hips on a few of those wool, silk and tweed cinched-waist coat dresses and you’ve got a few timeless pieces that could work off the runway.  KH

Alice + Olivia
Credit: Getty Images

5:35 p.m. There’s already a line down the block for the Alice + Olivia presentation, or rather, party. Waiters walk around with trays of bubbly, or, for those on assignment like, ahem me, sparkling waterwith adorable stripped paper straws. Glitzy chandeliers and wallpaper transform the dingy warehouse space into an opulent ballroom. I feel like I’m in a nightclub, an appropriate backdrop for Stacey Bendet’s glamorous fall line. At least, I think it’s glamorous. It’s kind of hard to see the collection because the place is packed with editors, bloggers and buyers jockeying for the perfect Instagram or a chocolate cake pop, which are now being passed around. The clothes almost get lost in the mix, which says a lot about how crowded the room is considering that the collection is filled with eye-grabbing sequins, beaded embellishments and shiny jacquard. Standouts include a dramatic ball gown skirt with graphic florals, a sparkly grey sequin sweatshirt and skirt combo, and a sexy bustier jumpsuit styled with trim tuxedo pants. Wear these to any party andyou’ll own the crowd. TC

A model walks the runway at the Marc By Marc Jacobs Fall 2013 fashion show.
Credit: Getty Images

8:09 p.m. Marc Jacobs is perhaps the only designer who not only gets his audience in their seats on time, but a few minutes early. At any other show, editors don’t arrive until about ten minutes after the start time. But tonight, the entire place is completely full at just nine minutes past the hour. That’s impressive when you think about the fact that a lot of guests accidentally went to the Armory where he normally shows each season. He changed the time (it was originally scheduled for 4pm) and location due to the blizzard.  KH

8:15 p.m. Fashion just got dirty, literally. I’m realizing that the first pair of muddy sneakers I spotted on one of the male models was not an accident. They’re all wearing them under wide leg trousers that drag along the floor, and from my seat look slightly dusty as if the guys walked all the way back home to Park and 81st after barhopping on the Lower Eastside. Marc’s girls, on the other hand, look perfectly neat and put-together in a mix of tailored separates that come in retro, Seventies silhouettes and pretty dresses that would seem outright prim if it weren’t for their trippy graphic prints. Standouts such as a demure graphic top and matching full skirt or wide leg pinstripe pants worn under a three quarter length naval coat look like good wardrobe additions for college seniors preparing for their first big publishing internship in the city. And now that I think about it, I wore Marc Jacobs for my first big magazine job interview.  KH

The post New York Fashion Week Day 5: Marc Jacobs, Alive + Olivia and more appeared first on Metro.us.

Here, she opens up to Metro about the ‘nightmare’ gym sessions, sparring herself into shape and how she celebrated getting into the skimpy lingerie with a cupcake — just one.
 

Q: It seems like hell — getting ready for the show. How do you girls cope with the pressure?

A: “One thing I need to get straight- I’ve never felt pressure from either Victoria’s Secret or my agency. No one pressured me to get ready for the show this fast. It’s a decision I made on my own. It was one of the most difficult things I’ve ever done because you’re dealing with nature. You do what you need to do to get ready but after having a baby you really don’t know how your body is going to react.”
 

Q: Sounds stressful. How did you react on the big day? Did you down shots of vodka backstage? 

A: “I get nervous before every single show. I thought that feeling would go away but it never did. Plus this year I was opening the show, which is a big responsibility as everybody kind of follows your mood. But every girl has a different way of expressing her nervousness. I don’t like talking so I just listen to music- anything by Eminem, Rihanna, Kings of Leon, “Rock and Roll” by Led Zeppelin, and “Heartbeats” by The Knife.” 

Q: Did getting ready for the show give you nightmares? Did you dream you were being attacked by giant candy bars?

A: “No! It was more during the day, when I had to go to the gym- that was my nightmare! Don’t get me wrong, I really love exercise…but it’s not easy.
The actual workout- it’s tough you know. You need a lot of determination in order to do it every single day. Every minute of every workout counts and this year, I wasn’t sure if I was going to make it or not.”

Q: Models Cara Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn (both in the Victoria’s Secret show with Adriana) reportedly ate pizza and KFC hours before the show. Would you want to scream if they ate in front of you, or join them?

A: “Ha! I’m a little bit older than them. But regardless of age, I’m really aware of the fact that you are what you eat.”

Q: Are you saying they’re going to turn into a giant pizza or a chicken wing?

A: “Maybe not right now but they’re going to see the results in the future, when they get old. It depends what they eat but they may have problems with cholesterol or diabetes, I don’t know. I just like to eat healthy. I have two children and I’m concerned about their health. I’m their example. I don’t want my three year old asking me “mama, I want chocolate for lunch.” Cake is festive, it’s not something you should eat everyday.” 

Q: What’s the first thing you did when the show ended? Run backstage, take off that lingerie and demolish a cheeseburger?

A: “No! But I did have a cupcake. Once in a while, I do eat these things you know. I just don’t do it every day. Even now that the show is over, I’m still working out and eating healthy. It’s my job.” 
 

Q: There are a lot of rumors out there that you Victoria’s Secret models literally starve yourselves in order to get ready for the show. You also shared sweaty pictures of yourself on Twitter to show how hard you were working out. How did you really go about it?

A: “I’d just had a baby so I had to do everything in a healthy way in order to best take care of myself and my body. I never do things on my own — I have a nutritionist and a personal trainer. I don’t want to have any problems. I know people see us on the runway and working out- but I don’t want them to think that we don’t eat. I don’t starve myself. I don’t do that. I love food, but I do watch what I eat.”

Q: So what kinds of workouts did you focus on? What foods did you eat?

A: “I was boxing — sparring, doing a little bit of rope and lots of abdominal and core work. I sometimes went running in the morning but that’s pretty much it. As for my diet, I was eating three ounces of protein, three times a day with plenty of steamed green vegetables and drinking lots of water.”  

Q: What’s more painful- getting ready for the show or giving birth?

A: “I enjoyed every second of both. When you make your own choices and you’re not forced to do things, nothing is painful. Being a mother is amazing and there are no words to describe that but also, the Victoria’s Secret Show…I mean every girl in the world would love to be an Angel.”

Q: At the end of the day… is all the pain of the workouts and the dieting worth it?

A: “Of course. I do things that I love and I do them from my heart- you understand?”

The Victoria Secret show is airing on CBS on December 4th 2012 at 10 PM EST / PST.
 

The post How Victoria’s Secret model Adriana Lima got the body of an angel appeared first on Metro.us.

The newly launched site is the brainchild of three friends, Jack Kalish, Jules Laplace and Mary Burford. They installed a motion-detecting camera near the exit of the L train on Bedford Avenue.

The moment a pedestrian cruises on by, the camera snaps a photo and instantly uploads it to the site, where style voyeurs can watch a live feed and rank the fashion savviness of the haphazard models by clicking a top hat icon, which emits a praise of “Stylin,” “Bangin,” or “tres Brooklyn.” There is no “dislike” feature, nor a place for users to leave comments, which could have potentially turned the site into a breeding ground of criticism.

“The last thing we want is a bundle of unfiltered id unleashed on these photos.  There’s enough hate and negativity in the world already, we don’t need anonymous people casting aspersions on everyday dress,” creator Jules Laplace told Metro. “That isn’t what Styleblaster is about.”

What made the creators choose Williamsburg (in case it isn’t obvious already)?

“The neighborhood is poised on the cusp of a new change as the repercussions of recent zoning changes, combined with inland condo construction, have literally paved the way for a new breed of stylish and sassy individuals,” they wrote on the site.

As for those who think the spy-cam effect is much too creepy, the team at Styleblaster just doesn’t see it that way.

“We believe this service fills a need for live fashion information, with a unique and unmatched vantage point on the hippest block in New York City,” the creators said. “It will quickly become a destination for New York City peacocks to traipse by and show off what makes the neighborhood hop.”

However, at least one NYC peacock has caught on to the project and decided to send a message of her disapproval. 

The post Styleblaster: New website snaps photos, lets you rate Williamsburg street fashion appeared first on Metro.us.

It sounds like a bizarrely counter-intuitive business model: after all a shopper’s experience, how ever positive, won’t pay the bills. But the designer duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim and want to avoid the vulgarity of the bottom line and market value.

Indeed, when pressed for a market value estimation Leon coyly responds: “I mean it’s worth a lot of time and energy. I don’t think there’s a dollar amount,” concluding by a knowing laugh. Let’s just put this way, Leon and Lim invested $10,000 each and they acquired a matching loan; they’ve self-funded all growth since Opening Ceremony was founded in September 2002.

Their approach to business is less concerned with aggressive expansionism and more focused on growing organically – but impressively with 4,000,000 unique visitors to the website: openingceremony.us that launched in 2009. Not to mention their own Opening Ceremony label, which is sold in over 300 stores worldwide, plus branches in New York, LA and an 8-floor concept store in Tokyo, a blog and a Twitter following that exceeds 74,000.

It’s a strategy and outlook that’s draws in the ‘right crowd`: cool kids, artsy types and the fashion-savvy after young designer talent. Blogger and fashion personality Susie Lau (stylebubble.co.uk) puts it down to “making high fashion approachable, friendly and aspirational for a younger clientele – there’s a real connection between music, film, art and even food in their selection.”

It’s clear the designers can truly read the fashion zeitgeist: from their business decisions from launching Alexander Wang to being the first to stock Havaianas flip-flops, Acne’s coveted skinny jeans and Topshop in the US.  

Even their latest store opening in London goes against the grain by eschewing their hipster habitat in favor of Covent Garden. A location that Leon openly admits isn’t the “typical” choice for Opening Ceremony, however, it’s a strategy that the Berkeley College, California-educated designers employed when they first arrived in New York by setting up just outside SoHo.  

Clearly, the selection of shop location isn’t completely whimsical. Their stores have a cult status like Dover Street Market in London, Corso Como in Milan, Colette in Paris. The duo, who met in 1993 while studying, are well aware that there shops are a tourist destination within themselves.  Their stores offer access to exclusivity but within the framework of an inclusive, Opening Ceremony community. Susie Bubble explains, “The lifestyle appeal is particularly obvious at the Ace hotel in New York which feels more like a lifestyle store than a fashion boutique. Also, on a price point level, they sell a lot of non-fashion trinkets [keyrings and pencils].”

“Community” sounds cheesy but it’s a scene that’s had considerable support from the art house and avant-garde likes of actress Chloë Sevigny, the label Rodarte, actor and musician Jason Schwartzman and film director Spike Jonze. These are all artistic collaborators who’re not just commercial money-spinners but rather muses and creatives who believe in the brand’s ethos.

An idea that’s reiterated in the 36-year-olds plan for Kenzo (they’ve only been at the label for two seasons), “Kenzo Takada had a really strong community around him like former French Vogue editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld and model Jerry Hall,” Leon continues: “I want to tell a story of the brand, which in the Seventies sat alongside Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld and we’re trying to tell his story through our eyes and vision.”

A vision that editors and shoppers are buying into, with the Kenzo label causing a considerable buzz: the house’s embroidered tiger knit sweater selling out on sites net-a-porter.com – a resurgence unseen, since founder Kenzo Takada retired in 1999. A great deal of that success and indeed Opening Ceremony’s prosperity its down to the personality of Leon and Lim. The designer says, “I feel like the Opening Ceremony DNA can be built into so many different things, even a small bed and breakfast-type hotel in some beach city like Jamaica, Key West or Mexico.”

Travel is one of their key motivations, having previously visited Brazil, Argentina and most recently Korea, where Leon says: “There’s a K-pop phenomenon, TV is booming and you know that the fashion part is just around the corner – we discovered things that’ll look super-exceptional in our stores.”

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Every now and then we get pictures of celebrities walking around or doing other uninteresting things, sent by a photo agency hoping to land the images on a website. This time, we were so outraged with what she was wearing, that we had to share it with our readers. She wore some lacy bra (no shirt) paired with a pleated skirt and tennis shoes, and then had the nerve to hold up her hands in front of her face in protest of having her photo taken. Puh-leez.

Cover your nipples, Rihanna! This isn’t France. There are rules here. Oh wait, no there’s not, as East Village topless woman Moira Johnston reminded us. Something tells us, though, Rihanna’s nipple-baring isn’t an attempt at social activism.

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For more on fashion, follow me on Twitter,  or on Tracy’s New York Life.

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Kanye West
1. To call Kanye West’s Paris Fashion Week debut last October a disaster is not exactly an understatement. The day after his top-secret collection premiered, critics politely complimented his music before skewering his clothes. But you have to give the die-hard fashion lover credit for perseverance. Because he came back with a (slightly) tighter show — and an even starrier audience, including Alicia Keys, Kim Kardashian, P. Diddy, Swizz Beatz, Anna Wintour, Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci and a long list of others. As for the improvements: Unlike his debut collection, this show had a clearer vision. The clothes weren’ all over the place, and they fit the models properly. Adopting the season’s color of the moment, black, he churned out monochromatic leather and suede looks that were a little bit fetish and a little bit Parisian party girl before mixing in a few daytime options in ivory and nude toward the end of the show. The problem is that the work still looked derivative. It was easy to pick out the influences (Givenchy, Azzedine Alaia, Gucci, the list goes on), but hard to pull out West’s actual point of view. That’s not a good thing when you consider his prices; a pair of Kanye West shoes are currently on sale at the Parisian boutique Colette for nearly $6,000 — yup, almost $6,000. Women who are prepared to spend that kind of money would probably rather do it on Givenchy instead.

Alexander McQueen

2. Sarah Burton once again created something marvelous with a collection of ethereal, futuristic android clones — clones because the platinum blonde hair, metal belts cinched tight at the waist and visors remained consistent throughout the show. That said, it was a collection that progressed in stages (as did the color palette of white, black, blush tones, cherry and red). Burton kicked off with jacquard-detail skirts, booties and knee-high socks, followed by leather dresses with pom poms — outlandish, but the wildest moments were yet to come. Her models morphed further into otherworldly creatures, with shaggy styles in fur, extravagant ostrich feathers and tiered organza pieces – all gently bobbing to the beat of the models’ walk. Burton’s latest offering was her most confidently daring show to date, all the while maintaining the house’s unmistakable artistry.

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Our favorites:

Necklace, $50

Hat, $10

Cardigan, $80

Shorts, $50

Pants, $80

Jacket, $99, Skirt, $60, Shoes, $100

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Sonia Rykiel

Haider Ackermann
Haider Ackermann has been on an unstoppable creative streak that heightens with each collection.  His Saturday morning show took place against a backdrop of rumors that he would be getting the creative director job at Christian Dior. And based on the clothes he showed, which were an incredible thesis on the art of jaw-dropping garment construction, he could handle the role of couturier with no problem. He showed complex outerwear with curved, sinewy lines that demanded to be studied at every angle. Some came with elaborately gathered peplums, others with beautifully draped backs. These were clothes to be collected as contemporary art —but also to be worn. And that’s ultimately what makes jaded editors give him a standing ovation as they did on Saturday. Haider’s work is artful, complicated and high-brow, without over-intellectualizing things. The clothes ultimately do what most women want clothes to do: make them feel long, lean and  beautiful. That’s the kind of skill that can only be developed with time.

Givenchy
Givenchy is always one of the most anticipated shows of Paris. Riccardo Tisci didn’t disappoint with a collection inspired by the equestrian world and the work of photographer Guy Bourdin. Forget the sexless, tweedy hunting set — Tisci’s horsey theme was racy with an S&M sensibility. There were riding jackets cinched tight; riding boots, jodhpur pants and furs (from a successful hunt, maybe?) teamed with leather gloves running high beyond the elbow and hinting toward a different kind of horseplay. All that was missing was the whip. What followed were pleated skirts, camisoles and cocktail dresses with lace applique in striking colors such as blood red and sage green.

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Philips’ Top 3 tips:
   
Invest in an eyelash curler:   “All women should have an eyelash curler. This also applies to women who don’t wear makeup. It’s not a dangerous tool, although a lot of people are terrified of it. One pinch to the lashes can work miracles as it opens up your eyes and makes you look fresh and awake. Add some mascara, and you’re ready to go.” 
   
Apply just the right amount:  “It’s a criminal offense to wear too much makeup, just as it is to wear too little. It’s all about striking a balance and wearing a look with confidence. Something that always looks wrong is not blending your foundation in so that you can see the line between the face and the neck. It’s so easy to avoid: Blend it out with your fingers and check the lighting in your bathroom.”
   
Remember, makeup can’t fix everything: “Every phase of your life has beauty in it. We all want youth, but at some point we have to realize that we’re getting older and it’s not all about foundation or mascara. If you eat and live wrong, it will have an impact on your looks. You know the tricks:?Eat more vegetables, stop smoking, drink water and cut back on alcohol.”

On color

“It took 24 tries in the lab before we got the right shade for Le Vernis in June. I wanted it to be the color of this plastic bag handle I got from some random shop in the States. The bag was black and the handle was this beautiful orange plastic. It had to be that exact shade, but in lacquer. It had to look just like the plastic, not transparent or pearly.”

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1. Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren is partly responsible for the feminine ’20s -inspired moment you’ve been seeing in the March issues of fashion magazines. So it came as somewhat of a surprise to see him go in the opposite direction for fall with classic, mannish tailoring. The collection was quintessential Ralph Lauren through the lens of British elegance — elongated three piece trouser suits in tweed and Prince of Wales check, chic tuxedos worn with top hats and canes and smartly tailored trousers paired with fair isle sweaters. The femininity emerged later through a series of bombshell gowns that came in satin, velvet and elaborate beading. They displayed a rich, decadent craftsmanship rarely seen in a week dominated by sellable sportswear. 


2. Calvin Klein
Sometimes a garment is so special that it demands to be in all black —all the better for the eye to focus on the technical prowess that went into making it without any distraction from color or print. This was the case with Francisco Costa’s mostly black plays on architectural shapes, volume and texture such as a midnight-glazed top in wool and mohair worn with cropped, contoured trousers. Each look was precise, confident, controlled — and intense. One could easily see any  of Costa’s dresses on Rooney Mara, who sat in the front row. To highlight the seriousness of it all, models speed walked down the runway like ambitious women with places to go, exactly the kind of shopper who would gravitate towards these clothes. 

3. Anna Sui
This was Anna Sui’s love letter to the ‘60s. Sui drew inspiration from various references from the decade, including mid-century modern legends Charles and Ray Eames and Alexander Girard, the designer best known for his colorful, folk-inspired textiles. She channeled them into her signature playful aesthetic, with results that included cuckoo clock prints, plaids and floras in bold sea foam, lime, orange and hot pink that appeared on just about every shift dress, jacket and blouse in the collection. There was also a school girl/secretary vibe. Models in oversized glasses wore cozy cardigans in mohair or chunky crochet patterns over sweet dresses with Peter Pan collars or chic, long plaid coats with matching skirts. But the best part was the feeling of happiness the show projected, from the models’ cheery demeanor (it’s like they were instructed to smile) to the jeweled unicorn applique to the cute owl-shaped hats and gloves. This letter was definitely sealed with a kiss. 

4. Proenza Schouler
We can all now safely declare Asia a trend. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough joined the growing list of designers who conjured up the Far East in their collections. The reference first surfaced in the impressively constructed white origami-like dresses, jackets, blouses and wide-leg trousers that opened the show, a cool subversion of the traditional karate uniform — almost as if an ass-kicking Japanime heroine went on a shopping spree at Barneys New York. Kimono sleeved coats and chinoiserie print dresses fleshed the theme out even more. It all made for a tougher, more cutting edge interpretation of Asia than the other versions we’ve seen this week — think “Kill Bill” vs. “The Last Emperor.” 

5. Michael Kors
Only Kors, who made financial headlines this week when he had a 27 percent jump in stock price this Tuesday, could make lumberjack plaid  ooze luxury. But his craggy theme saved the clothes from veering into the “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous” trap that his collections have fallen in during seasons past. What the rugged elements did was add an urban edge to his conventionally glamorous look. For instance a Chesterfield coat with an oversize fur collar would have read totally differently if it had been done in Kors’ trademark gray or camel. But in red and black buffalo checks, layered over leather trousers, it looked modern and cool. Sometimes his outsize outerwear reached fashion victim proportions, though, such as the case with a belted Alpaca fringed coat that practically swallowed the model wearing it. 

6. Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti
Bring on the winter white! For those who think black is the only way to look chic, behold Alberta Ferretti’s fall offerings. The designer started her contemporary line in a palette of elegant bone, which enhanced the minimal, slightly futuristic affect she seemed to be going for with looks such as a skirted suit cinched at the waist with a clear plastic belt. In another look, a jacket came with a plastic overlay. But it was by no means an austere or tech-y show. There was a strong focus on officewear with a modern edge, such as her silver tuxedo suit, as well as plenty of sparkly pieces for when the computers get shut down. 

7. Alexandre Herchcovitch
It’s been a week of subdued elegance so far, and Alexandre Herchcovitch’s refined collection underscored that point. This is the guy, after all, who once sent models down the runway in giant, cage-like football shoulder-pads in hyper-bright colors. His work for autumn continued the experiment in ladylike dressing he started last season, but in a much less saccharine way. It was bold in color choice with a quiet autumnal palette of burgundy and saffron that quickly gave way to a range of shiny and matte golds. But the clothes were quiet in terms of the ideas he explored — simple suede dresses, tops and skirts with subtly curved lines. The best part was his use of fabric. Who knew lace and suede go so well together? These were dressy clothes for unfussy girls. 

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1. Marc by Marc Jacobs
Was it a mid-century Russian military moment? Or French student activists caught mid-protest? Or New York hipsters channeling ’80s Irish punks? It’s always an interesting exercise guessing which references go into a Marc Jacobs show. One thing we can say for sure, the austerity of his secondary line made quite a contrast from the evocative eccentricity he showed for his main line a few nights earlier. But the intelligent plays on volume and proportion were still there. His Marc by Marc Jacobs girls had an untouchable, buttoned-up seriousness to them with wide, knee-length skirts, oversized military jackets, boxy coats and crisp Oxford shirts that obscured the body to the point of almost de-sexualizing it. Hormonal club kids, they were not. Glossy officer’s drum hats; lace-up, high-top boots; and a color palette of mostly charcoal, black and white — with the occasional pops of red and blue — added to the overall intensity.

2. Tory Burch
Set in Alice Tully Hall’s floor-to-ceiling glass lobby, Tory Burch’s fall show stopped traffic on 65th Street yesterday morning. Commuters stood outside, mesmerized by the pretty young things and the lovely creations they wore. We suspect that’s the same reaction any woman wearing Burch’s ultra-feminine clothes will receive. Models with their hair pinned in French twists came down the runway in ladylike tweed cardigans; knee-length skirts; and dreamy chiffon, tulle and organza separates fit for a princess — or UES royalty. Maybe the Kate Middleton effect set into the subconscious of New York designers, because fall is all prim and proper. There were moments of this good girl gone bad, though — the show notes say Burch’s girl falls for the wrong kind of guy. Body-hugging silhouettes and skintight leather pants hinted at some naughty behavior — which is great, because nice girls like to have fun, too. 

3. J.Crew
The room was so crowded that editors could hardly get close enough to the models to see the clothes. That’s how big of a draw the J.Crew presentation has become. The main attraction was — as is always the case with J.Crew — Jenna Lyons’ unique take on sportswear, which famously includes a modern, offbeat mix of print, texture, color and ideas. This season, it was produced under Tom Mora, Lyons’ new head of women’s design, with Manolo Blahnik creating the special capsule collection of pumps. It all came together to create a rich-looking mix for work and play. The best moments from the collection were the most unexpected, such as a Fair Isle sweater tied casually around the waist of a glittery sapphire colored dress, which was worn quirkily over a crisp white button down. On paper it sounds bizarre and wrong, but styled together it made for a cool, fresh take on fashion’s proverbial day-to-night dressing. Meanwhile, a pair of spotted, tailored, black-and-white trousers worn with a contrasting mint-colored zigzag sweater and trim tan coat was classic J.Crew at its best. 

4. Sophie Theallet
Here’s a bright spot for fall: Sophie Theallet’s take on femininity played on a single Baroque print in a variety of rich colors and textures. The graphic appeared either as one layer of an ensemble or piled on with other pieces of the same print, such as a jade vest over a wine turtleneck with a purple satin pencil skirt — all in her Baroque pattern. It sounds a bit much, but looked artfully put together and yet carefree. You can see a quirky girl having fun and standing out among a sea of uniform grays and blacks. There were some noteworthy solid-color pieces, too: a bright red satin dress boasted sex appeal; cropped red or purple pants screamed “working girl’s best friend” (perfect with flats for the office or heels for after-hours); and an ivory halter dress played peek-a-boo, revealing red straps on an otherwise bare back. 

5. Diesel Black Gold
The first look in Diesel’s high-end line was a black-and-white sweater with a print of a woman crying. What followed was a collection with an “I’m not taking any crap” attitude. Sophia Kokosalaki sent out menswear-inspired separates in sleek black leather, leopard print and pony hair. There were cropped vests, slouchy pants, a denim shirt, boxy blazers and low-slung leather skirts. Jeans, when they did make an appearance, came in prints and cropped at the ankle. It was a cool, edgy collection of looks that Alice from “Resident Evil” would totally wear in her downtime. Or, you know, you, when you want to feel a little badass. 

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1. Marc Jacobs
Like the cold front that blew in this week from across the Atlantic, an undercurrent of Anglophilia swept through the shows yesterday. Marc Jacobs, New York’s most prominent and influential architect of trends, showed a directional collection of layered ensembles that made subtle nods to the Queen’s land. It capped off a day peppered with references to the United Kingdom. From the first look out — a giant, furry Stephen Jones-designed hat piled on an outfit that included a cape worn over a voluminous coat on top of a slick, tiled, opalescent dress over cropped trousers and pilgrim shoes — the show had an air of madcap sobriety to it. Each piece in and of itself was luxurious (richly embroidered skirts, lavish brocades and elaborately engineered patchwork coats), but worn in such a way that it created a sense of pathos. It was as if Jacobs’ muses were guarding themselves against brutally glacial, hard times — wearing their clothes as both creative statement and protective armor. This collection may have been wild, but it seemed to capture the current climate (both social and meteorological) in a way that few designers have this week. In terms of what that means for your wardrobe, expect Jacobs’ play on proportion and layering to trickle down to your favorite mass-market store faster than you can say Elizabeth II.

2. Donna Karan Collection
This show was really two in one. Karan opened with her Casual Luxe collection, which, according to the press notes, was “tailored for the streets of New York” but on the runway appeared to stem from Balmoral Scotland. These were heavily layered cold-weather looks with cozy, chunky, shearling outerwear; oversized tartan blanket knits; and sweeping kilts. It was a strong, covetable collection that, if expanded, could have easily been the main attraction. Instead, Karan segued into black-tie dressing for her main line. It featured mannish pinstriped suits and sexy twists on tuxedo dressing topped with perky little fedoras designed by Stephen Jones. The tailored looks impressively advanced the general feeling of polished sophistication in the air this week. But it was her rough and rugged plaid offerings at the beginning of the show that were the most memorable. 

3. Rodarte
Over the past few years, Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s following has grown considerably, thanks to their lower-priced collaborations with Target and Opening Ceremony. That might, in part, explain the increasingly wearable direction they nudge their line toward with each season. Their artful clothes were long the stuff of magazine editorials, gallery openings and movie premieres (Natalie Portman, Dakota Fanning and George Lucas all sat front row at yesterday’s show). But any one of the Outback-chic coats, rustic dresses and sweet separates the sisters showed for autumn could transition seamlessly to the street. Their beautifully constructed shearling coats — sure to be a hot item next fall — were the kind of winter item a girl could live in every day, while the laser-cut leather dresses that followed could easily and surprisingly go from a work day to night out. And yet all of the clothes maintained that cool, rarefied quality we associate with the brand. Let’s just cross our fingers that this new wearability leads to a secondary line that their growing legions of fans can afford. 

4. Betsey Johnson
Betsey Johnson has toned down the crazy. (OK, maybe just a little.) Inspired by England’s mod scene in the ’60s, she started the show with black-and-white houndstooth shorts and a floor-length black coat that were unaffectedly cool. In true Betsey style, an assortment of looks (casualwear, workwear and, of course, playwear) and prints (pretty florals, stripes, plaids) followed. But unlike seasons past, they were less busy and had a more mature and wearable sense to them. Don’t get us wrong — there were still plenty of cute, over-the-top elements: an orange coat with neon-pink, faux-fur trim; voluminous, strapless dresses; and one animal-print, skintight jumper that would make Catwoman blush. But this is a collection you can see on more than just purple-haired tweens with Hello Kitty lunch boxes. And in case you’re worried, she still ended the show with a cartwheel-into-splits on the runway. 

5. Ohne Titel
Technically, Flora Gill and Alexa Adams’ hyper-graphic woven knits were almost too good. Their checked jackets, scarves, dresses and skirts were the kind of impressive feat that looks so special on the salesroom floor that you feel compelled to invest in it. But then you take it home and realize it makes you look like a graphic design experiment. It was a specific look that requires a specific woman to pull off. The more subtly printed pieces that came toward the end of the show (striped, body-hugging dresses; sleek trouser suits and a streamlined leather shift) had a broader appeal. 

6. Jenny Packham
It felt like an Oscar night preview show at Jenny Packham — as per usual. Taking her cues from the vixens of film noir, Packham sent ’40s-inspired gowns down the runway. There were long, lean silhouettes and pencil skirts belted at the waist; short, sparkly, one-shoulder cocktail dresses; sleek, sexy jumpsuits; and just to shake things up, a voluminous, floral-printed showstopper. But any nominees worth the golden statue should choose the glamorous and slightly subversive oat-colored gown with the plunging neckline and crystal-embellished shoulders that snake up and around the neck like a choker. She would be a winner in our book. 

7. Erin by Erin Fetherston
Guests enjoyed cake pops and cocktails during Erin Fetherston’s fall presentation for her lower-priced line. The girl knows a thing or two about setting the scene for a party — and dressing for one. “You can never go wrong with a little black dress that has a hint of sparkle,” she told us. Her new collection of mostly evening looks featured whimsical whale and feather prints, sexy cutouts and, of course, some dreamy shimmer. But it’s not all fun and games — Fetherston is intent on running a successful business. When asked if she has plans to bring her signature line back, she responded, “Right now I am totally focused on the Erin collection. I really love designing a collection that has creative integrity and that is ultimately accessible.” Cheers to that.

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1. Diane von Furstenberg
The models walked out to Tina Turner’s cover of Al Green’s “Let’s Stay Together” for the finale. Then Diane von Furstenberg and her creative partner, Gucci alumnus Yvan Mispelaere, took their bow. He kept his arm wrapped around her waist as they walked the runway, von Furstenberg stopping to hug and kiss well-wishers. Perhaps the song was meant to send a message. Mispelaere has only been in his current role for three seasons, but he’s already made a noticeable mark, evolving von Furstenberg’s girl about town to a more grown-up place complete with slicked back buns; sophisticated, streamlined, body-skimming dresses; and elbow-length gloves. But was it too subdued for DVF die-hards? They may find themselves missing her trademark youthful prints when the collection hits stores.

2. Altuzarra
Ethnic prints, while great poolside, are rarely seen mixed in a cold weather wardrobe — that is until now. Joseph Altuzarra, the fashion darling who was championed by Carine Roitfeld early on in his career and won CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award last year, headed to the Far East and Morocco for the first part of his strong fall collection. Traditional red Indian prints covered dresses, and jodhpurs were embellished with gypsy-esque gold coins. Long knit sweaters with wispy fringe trimmings and neon pink pom-poms added to the bohemian undercurrent. Sound a little too hippie for your taste? Altuzarra grounded the looks with sleek tailoring, tough skinny cargo pants, chic black structured dresses, and ridiculously cool outerwear (there were black shearlings, fur-lined peacoats and luxe toggle options). Despite these different elements there was cohesiveness to the collection: maybe it’s just that its cosmopolitan free spirit vibe is a seductive look for any girl. Sign us up for one of everything. 

3. DKNY
Donna Karan’s team drew inspiration from the beat generation, but the reference wasn’t literal in the Jack Kerouac at a coffee shop sense. Rather, it surfaced in the nearly all black and navy color palette; trim, tailored jackets and trousers; and flouncy miniskirts. The clothes had a certain youthful seriousness about it that will work well for twentysomethings shopping for their first real job. And trend watchers, take note: The waist line seems to be a big focal point for next fall. The DKNY collection pushed this idea forward with wide bandeau leather belts that cinched jackets, coats and dresses. 

4. Thakoon
Set in the ornate grand ballroom of the Plaza Hotel, Thakoon Panichgul seemed to have created a collection for the ladies who lunch there. There was a polished sophistication to the clothes, best exemplified in the shift dresses and ruffled coats. But there were twists: a structured coatdress pinched at the waist seemed prim until the model turned the corner and sexy black leather cutouts in the back were revealed. Panichgul then kicked the feminine and playful factor into high gear with sweet peacock feather embroidery, bow details, and a palette of fuschia and cranberry. A few pieces even featured a pattern of anatomical hearts and lips. If you’re getting a toothache from just reading this, rest assured — the tailoring, beautiful construction and cheeky details saved the clothes from looking too girly or uptight. 

5. Tommy Hilfiger
Though the fall collection began with strong outerwear — handsome double-breasted coats, a burgundy patent leather trench and dark yellow moto jacket — it’s the second half of the show that wowed. Warning: If you don’t have access to a stable, the equestrian wears, such as the cable-knit sweaters with suede patches, jewel tone silky dresses printed with graphic reins and tweed separates, will make you consider going for a ride — or at least dress that way. 

6. Derek Lam
It can be tricky making sportswear basics read high fashion. They can’t be too earnest or simple. They need some kind of subversion, a sort of sartorial wink to let the world know that the wearer knows exactly what kind of statement she’s making. Lam did this in a way that fashion-obsessed career girls will love, ticking off all the boxes on both the list of office wardrobe needs and trends — a minimalist sweatshirt done in black leather; a streamlined dress covered in a black and white print that contrasted with its red graphic collar; or a skirt suit in florals with a bomber jacket instead of the requisite blazer. Like the large white frames that were arranged at contrasting angles on the runway, the clothes were clean and polished, with just the right amount of off-kilter.
 


7. Herve Leger by Max Azria
For fall, Azria made the classic bandage dress, which he reworks every season, a little less Kim Kardashian and more Naomi Campbell. In short, the bombshell factor was still there but slightly less overt. The clothes had a sense of restrained wildness and intrigue thanks to equestrian-like harnesses that came strapped around the dresses, longer hemlines and a darker color palette. Granted, this was an extension of the gladiator warrior queen collection Azria did for spring. But those body-hugging metallic dresses were still Hollywood Lite at heart. This season’s effort was more fully realized.  kh
 

8. Tracy Reese
It would be nice to see Reese’s nice girl go bad. Azealia Banks’ raunchy “212” (the song is everywhere this week) played throughout the soundtrack, but the clothes were more sweet than hard. Reese turned out much to keep her loyal fan base happy: fun, upbeat separates in a variety of jewel tones, luxe coats, covetable shoes and a series of richly embroidered dresses. It was classic, feminine, pretty Reese that will most likely do well on the sales floor. But a little edge to contrast the sweet could do much to broaden Reese’s audience even further.

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2. Padma Lakshmi and Susan Sarandon at Costello Tagliapietra

3. Arianna Huffington arrives at the Prabal Gurung show.
   

4. Gabourey Sidibe and Mena Suvari at Christian Siriano
   

5. The Courtin-Clarins girls
   

6. Zoe Kravitz at Alexander Wang
   

7. Julia Restoin Roitfeld and Carine Roitfeld attend the Alexander Wang show.

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1. Suno
Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty’s trademark prints got bigger, bolder and less overtly ethnic this season. The globe-trotting element they’re known for was missing, replaced instead with a kind of art world whimsy. Some of the most intriguing looks were surprisingly the least Suno-esque, such as a nude intarsia mock-neck sweater layered over a silk halter top and matching ruffled skirt, as well as a simple, oversized fisherman sweater paired with a black leather pencil skirt. The duo is clearly trying to figure out how to evolve from its African wax-print foundation. It will be interesting to see where they end up.  Kenya Hunt

2. Helmut Lang
In a lot of ways, Michael and Nicole Colovos’ autumn collection mirrored the audience — that slick, minimalist, all-black fashion editor’s look complete with sharply tailored jackets and trousers. Frankly, there will always be a market for a well-made moto jacket, but it doesn’t necessarily make for the most exciting runway show. Things got more interesting when they worked in color, such as an oxblood trouser suit (bur­gundy is big this season) and a variety of graphic-printed dresses.  Kenya Hunt

3. Richard Chai Love
The girls dressed like boys in masculine coats and laid-back trousers in Chai’s joint men’s and women’s wear show. And the guys wore voluminous parkas cinched at the waist — a shape-defining trick the ladies know well. The rest of the collection, however, was all masculine. Perhaps it has something to do with Chai’s recent appointment as creative director of Filson, the rugged outdoor clothing brand. The end result: practical separates in mostly gloomy charcoals, blacks and navy, with a smattering of floral chiffon pants and a slew of handsome outerwear. The oversized utility pockets found on some of the looks, however, should be left for hunting trips rather than the urban jungle.  Tina Chadha

4. Cushnie et Ochs
Though Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs started out their fall show with some body-con stunners (the dresses with cut-outs showcasing the decolletage were both provocative and elegant), there were some issues. Namely, we can’t see anyone bigger than a B cup gracefully fitting into these numbers. And second, the pencil skirts with the dangerously high slits in the back straddle the line between dark and sexy and just plain hoochie.  The duos use of zipper embellishments was a fun update to their edgy aesthetic. Tina Chadha

5. Rag & Bone
As temperatures in New York dropped down to glacial lows, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville’s dense layering didn’t seem like such a bad idea. Who wouldn’t want a chic and cozy blanket coat to toss over a trouser suit like the strong opening look? The only problem is that heavy layering — especially when it involves elements like, say, a printed wrap dress over a knit turtleneck and trousers — can only go so far before it starts to add awkward lumps. That said, look for their perfectly cool separates and coats in stores, but maybe think hard before imitating the runway styling.  Kenya Hunt

6. Costello Tagliapietra
Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra have established a method that has worked well for them: soft, feminine, vaguely retro dresses that look great no matter what the trend of the moment. Still, one can’t help sometimes wishing for a bit more from the popular duo — a bigger dose of the unexpected to shock the senses. The digital prints they turned out came pretty close, adding a jolt of the future to their always pretty, vintage-flavored draped jersey dresses.  Kenya Hunt

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1. Alexander Wang
If fall 2012 is shaping up to be the season of outerwear, then Alexander Wang is owning it. He built his collection around one singular message: the coat. And not just any coat, but a lean, mean, glossy and slightly futuristic specimen that we predict will be one of the most photographed items of next season (second place goes to his covetable boots). Each look was a successful experiment in fabric manipulation, starting with the opener: a lacquered wool tweed raincoat that shone like plastic. But most interestingly, the collection seemed to signal a gradual progression toward a more grown-up, sophisticated look for Wang. His trademark model-off-duty was nowhere to be seen, though the show was heavy on top models — Karolina Kurkova, Shalom Harlow, Carmen Kass and Gisele Bundchen closed the show.  Kenya Hunt

2. Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung came out guns blazing for his fall outing, titled “uncursed.” Stating in interviews that a newfound confidence and internal journey from hell to heaven was his inspiration, he first sent models down the runway in strong, all black, dominatrix-esque separates including beautifully tailored, flared trousers, neoprene cocktail dresses with sexy sheer tulle inserts and luxe coats. Next came a blue series featuring more of the digital prints he used for spring before the finale of looks in softer ivory and gold. The last two series had some misfires — organza ruffles felt too precious and the show closer, an ivory gown with sequins and ostrich feathers, read Vegas showgirl. But if the black selections were his “cursed” looks, please cast a spell on us now.  Tina Chadha

3. Jason Wu
It was refreshing to see Jason Wu, who has built an impressive business on the polished, pretty and girly (just look at his upcoming Target collection), go tough for fall in such a smart and unique way. For Wu, the process of transforming his soft and uber feminine muse into a proper badass meant going back to his Chinese roots and exploring images of the country throughout history, from the Qing dynasty to the Mao jacket. That translated into a series of beautifully executed military coats and jackets loaded with rich Far Eastern details and innovative construction. They came in all manner of hybrids —  take for one the belted leather number in olive green, covered in black lace, with quilted leather shoulders and oversized pockets. Meanwhile, loyalists who like their Wu pretty and polished will want his embroidered dresses — though these weren’t nearly as intriguing as his hard-edged coat and trouser combos.  Kenya Hunt

4. Peter Som
Som’s brand of power dressing for fall was a step outside the average 9-to-5er’s realm in terms of luxury and glamour. He cleverly combined masculine tailoring and feminine details, taking inspiration from old Hollywood icons such as Katharine Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich — hardly new ideas in the fashion world. But he executed them in a way that was exciting. Take his treatment of the age-old peplum, which undulated in waves around the waist or came edged in ultra feminine frills. Other highlights included his patchwork dresses and fur coats and slouchy peg-leg trousers. If anything seemed out of sync, it was the kitten-printed silk separates, which seemed to distract from the untouchably cool tone he had established for the show.  Kenya Hunt

5. Rebecca Taylor
“Who’re you calling a girly girl?” seems to be the statement Rebecca Taylor is making with her fall outing. This season, her girl is swapping her signature silky camis and flirty frocks for an edgier look. To Azealia Banks’ “212,” Taylor sent out studded leggings, laid-back, cozy knits and — yup, we’re going to say it — dope outerwear. We see her slouchy herringbone coat, shearling motorcycle and quilted leather jacket being scooped up by uptown and downtown girls alike — such as Olivia Palermo and Zoe Kravitz, who were both seated front row.  Tina Chadha

6. Creatures of the Wind
Designers Shane Gabier and Chris Peters patched together a hodgepodge of prints, fabrics, colors and ideas in just about every look during their hot-ticket show (Anna Wintour and Jenna Lyons were two show-goers). Examples include a cotton top with black and white graphic-printed shoulders and a brown and orange plaid bodice with a purple and pink brocade and striped skirt. We could see a quirky bird like Bjork wearing these intricately constructed looks — but everyday shoppers, not so much.  Tina Chadha

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Well, now I’m scared. I was fine until you said that. [Laughs] There’s no time to think about anything except your to-do list. It’s just crazy busy. I’m rapidly getting grey hair.

Well, you’ve got a lot of hair.

I do have a lot of hair. I’m going to have a lot of grey hair.

For 25, your clothes have a mature sensibility to them. Have you always been more sophisticated than your peers?

I’ve always been an old soul. When I was in preschool, I used to insist on wearing suspenders and ties to school. I definitely have an aesthetic emerging.

And it’s apparently going in a darker direction for fall. What influenced this?

Our collection this season is kind of Edwardian/“Dragon Tattoo” — like “Great Expectations” meets Rooney Mara, because we have a lot of interesting historical cuts, some great peplum shapes and long, floor- length coats. One of the nice things is that you get to design fall/winter collections when it’s cold out. So for a lot of it you’re walking around and it’s chilly and you think, “What do you want to wear?” You want something a little darker, something mysterious. A high collar standing around your face, a jacket buttoned, long sleeves that go down to your knuckles, something with attitude and edge. 

You’re often called an uptown or society designer. But do you ever just want people to say you have street cred, too?

I live on Bowery and Bond. I’m totally a Downtowner. [Laughs] We [are sold in] Kirna Zabete, which is a supercool store in SoHo, and we really have a diverse clientele. I’m grateful to anyone who buys anything, wherever they may live.

Jones New York wanted you to update their classic workwear line. How did you tackle that?

The idea was to take a little bit of what I do in terms of tailoring and cool materials, and to do a collection that addresses how the modern young woman wants her wardrobe to look. What she wants to wear to the office, what she wants to wear on the weekends.

So what does she want to wear to the office?

Well, that’s interesting. It’s one thing to work in fashion where you have such creative freedom. But someone at a bank has a strict dress code. So we came up with options like a short sleeved, pencil skirted suit. There’s almost a Gwyneth Paltrow, “Great Expectations” clean vibe to the line.

Speaking of work, how would you like your line to advance?

My goal has always been to build a company that stays relevant. Going to art school in London I was around a lot of cool girls. You see them dressing in, like, Zara leggings and a vintage T-shirt and they’d throw on a vintage YSL jacket that they got from their mum or a flea market. And I think that’s so cool — the blazer that someday a woman’s daughter steals from her. There’s something to these pieces. I think that if you can make something elegant, it stays elegant forever.

So what’s the five-year plan?

Growing the collection, we’re going to do resorts and pre-fall, accessories, and hopefully  menswear, so that I can steal some clothes from the office. I want to do furniture, you name it — I want to do everything.
 
You grew up in Atlanta. How do your Southern roots influence your design?
   
When a plane lands in Atlanta I get a little Southern accent back. It’s really an aesthetic culture in the South. There’s definitely a romance there. Everyone’s yard is a work of art. The gardens are beautiful, the houses are beautiful; there’s just something very pretty about it all. I love it.

Hanging on his inspiration board

“A face up on my wall is Rooney Mara. Then I have an amazing picture from World Of Interiors magazine of this great room in a house in England that is kind of dilapidated with old wooden plank floors and a big, high, grand ceiling with an old chandelier hanging from it. I like to look at this and think, “Who’s about to walk into this room? What is she wearing in this kind of abandoned, slightly eerie, but romantic grand country manor in England?”

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1. Topshop sunglasses, $45, www.topshop.com
   

2. Prada butterfly-frame sunglasses, $290, www.netaporter.com
   

3. Henry Holland for Le Specs sunnies, $125, www.asos.com
   

4. Cutler & Gross 1051 mango frames, $475,  www.cutlerandgross.com
   

5. Linda Farrow Luxe 38 sunglasses, $704, www.lindafarrow.co.uk
   

6. Mango cat-eye sunglasses, $30, www.mango.com

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He’s talking about the moment he went from being a cult favorite of Tilda Swinton and a host of fashion and art world insiders to an outright media sensation. It was the fall of 2010 and the pertinent events unfolded like this: In an interview with Numéro magazine, Karl Lagerfeld named Haider Ackermann as the guy he’d like to succeed him at Chanel. Days of retweets and months of “Who is Haider Ackermann?” blog coverage ensued, followed by a pivotal bombshell runway show in March 2011 that literally moved editors to tears. Then came an American Vogue cover, a big story in Newsweek and a slew of gushing magazine articles in which journalists wrote about him with highly poetic language. They called him The New Romantic. His role as the fashion world’s new crown prince was sealed. It’s a high that Ackermann is still floating on.

“Certain things happen and you realize just how much power a single person can have. To have people you’ve admired your whole life notice you,” he says, trailing off. There is a smile in his voice, which is a surprise because at first glance, Ackermann appears to be a very serious, brooding, enigmatic man.

His clothes reveal a similar mysteriousness and intelligence. This isn’t fashion for the Kardashians of the world. He’s more revered by the most ardent, hard-core fashion lovers. “I’m not so much attracted to the woman who wants to be the center of attention. She’s not my kind of person. It’s violent how people put themselves out there on reality TV, leaving nothing to imagine or question,” he says.

His silk skirts, dresses and jackets wrap around the body like sinuous bands of smoke (there’s that poetic language again) and his flair for rich, jewel and desert tones conjures up images of moody vistas in places like Morocco, Ethiopia or India. Ackermann calls it “drawing up his past.”

Born in Columbia, he was raised by French parents in various parts of Africa and Europe. “The first thing I was drawn to as a kid in Africa was the idea of one piece of fabric that women would wrap around themselves. The fabric was always blowing in the wind and you’d see these women running through the medina like ghosts. It touched me. And ever since, a wardrobe has only ever been interesting to me when it’s moving,” he says. Lately, though, he’s been looking back much less. “You can only draw what you are made of. But now that so many things are happening, I’m looking much more toward my future in my work,” he admits, alluding to the near constant state of buzzing excitement around him.

He gets particularly animated when remembering a meeting he had with his hero, Martin Margiela, one of the fashion world’s most recondite and revered talents. “He wanted to meet me,” Ackermann says incredulously. “I used to have all these doubts and insecurities in my head. But if this man could take me seriously, I had to face it and take myself seriously.”

Ackermann is quick to dismiss any notion that he might be an overnight hit, though. “I’ve never been attracted to the person of the moment. The idea of being a passing moment always kind of scared me. I showed my first collection in 2003 and could not have gotten to this place without all of the building I did before.”

The backstory

Background: After graduating from high school in the Netherlands, Ackermann studied at Antwerp’s prestigious The Academy of Fine Arts.

The line: Ackermann launched his eponymous line after leaving fashion school and completing an internship for John Galliano.

The look: Mannish tailoring meets seductive, body-skimming silhouettes.

The women: Tilda Swinton is Ackermann’s most loyal fan. But his legions of famous followers also include Penelope Cruz and Janet Jackson.

The post Haider Ackermann: The new Karl Lagerfeld? appeared first on Metro.us.

A staffer offers me a pink bottle of Diet Coke emblazoned with a miniature ponytailed Lagerfeld and designed by the man himself. I pour the soda into a sleek, cube-shaped Orrefors glass created by, you guessed it, and then sip my drink underneath a giant, crystal, antique chandelier.

Finally, Lagerfeld arrives,  looking impenetrable in dark glasses and leather, but he has the sniffles. Welcome to Karl’s world, a contradictory mixture of the old-fashioned and thoroughly modern, the rarefied and the mass market, the untouchable and surprisingly vulnerable.

Nice to see you again. Have you read all of these books?

Yes, but you know most of the books are books you look at. This is not a library with reading books. My reading books are somewhere else. I haven’t looked at every book. I don’t buy them by the meter to make a wallpaper, hm? But you can spend hours looking at these. So when I’m late, I think people have so much to look at, to learn, that I don’t feel too guilty. But it’s not my fault because when the first appointment is late, you’re late after all the time. I had an appointment at 11, they arrived at half past 12. What can you do, huh?

It’s good to know that you’re human.

I look the part. But I’m not that human, hm? But more down-to-earth than me, you will never find. You cannot be more down-to-earth.

You’re about to relaunch your Karl Lagerfeld brand as two collections, both of which will be sold online and one of which is very affordable. Why now?

These days, it’s easier to use decent fabrics for not so much money. Really great. When I did H&M, which was seven years ago — I cannot believe it — I had a kind of appeal for people who buy inexpensive. I don’t say cheap because people are cheap, but clothes are not supposed to be cheap, they are supposed to be well designed and not expensive. There’s a very big difference, ah? So [the Karl Lagerfeld launch] has the top and [then also] the top of the inexpensive. I don’t say low because there is nothing low. When I did H&M, everyone said don’t do it. And it worked. When I took over Chanel, everyone said to me, don’t do it, it’s dead, it doesn’t work. It worked beyond. So I [had] better not listen to people and follow only my instincts.

Do you spend a lot of time on the Internet?

Yes. I spend a lot of time — no, time passes so quickly that nothing is ever a lot of time.

Do you ever shop online?

Not personally; I don’t do it because I don’t have the Internet.  But everyone around me does it for me. I buy things from the Internet, but it’s not me personally. I don’t give the number of my credit card and all those things. Excuse me one second. Why do we have a visitor? I didn’t know we were going to have a visitor. [Speaks in French] This is why I’m late you know, because people come who don’t have an appointment and say they do.

Life with Karl Lagerfeld.

Yeah, but it shouldn’t be, you know? [Laughs] I don’t make meetings, it bores me to death. I never make meetings. You know what I call meetings?

No, what?

Salary justification. That’s why people meet for hours. Whenever they want to talk to me, they meet for hours.

What is your response to people who say you do too many collaborations?

I couldn’t care less. It depends if I know the people. If unknown people say this, they should send me a note and explain why. The limit is up to me to decide.

You’re known for constantly moving forward and really capturing the now. But are there any moments from the past that you hold especially dear?

I’m not a vintage specialist, for nothing: not for my life, not for my work, for nothing. I have no archives. Maybe the houses keep archives. I have nothing. I’m not interested in what I did. I’m just interested in what I’m doing, what can be inspired.

You live in six different places — where are those six places?

I have one where I live and sketch. Here is my private office, then I have a townhouse for entertaining, my photo studio. I have all of this on the corner here, and then I have two apartments that are guests’ houses, because I don’t want people in my house. I don’t care so much, but they have to go home. I don’t want any promiscuity, I’m not into that.

Speaking of promiscuity, do you have much of a sex drive?

No, I’m not very much interested in that. But it’s not a question of time, people can make quickies, you know. [Laughs] If you ask this kind of question, you get this kind of answer. [Laughs]

Quickies can be fun.

Good, good, good! I find you talk like Europeans. [Laughs] I think sex is an overrated subject.

It’s the French way, though.

You know, I’m not French. I’m a bloody German.

When was the last time you were in love?

I don’t know. I like freedom.

Do you find relationships too constricting?

Relationships happen for everybody, it can never be a problem. But it’s not really my main thing.

If you had a child or a pupil or someone who you had to pass down words to live by, what would you pass down?

That’s why I don’t have children, hm? There’s nothing to pass down because everybody has to invent his own thing. I don’t believe in this because what I learned, saw and all that happened in other periods is different now. I have a godson, who is small, 3½ years old, genius. He’s got real personality and his parents have no authority. He loves clothes. He wants everything like me. He sleeps with his gloves and goes to school with black glasses on. It’s so funny. But I believe you have to find your own way. What I hate about children is that they put you in a generation mode. I don’t want to be anyone’s father generation, grandfather generation. I’m of no generation. I’m from every generation.

Have you ever had a pet?

Yes, but they die so I don’t like them. The drama is I had two I really liked, and after they died I don’t want another one. That’s too depressing.

Are you afraid of death?

I couldn’t care less. [Percy Bysshe] Shelley said, “Death may be a waking up from the dream of life.” But if you ask me, it’s like a sleep where you don’t wake up. You don’t remember before, you don’t remember after. The only thing is, I don’t want to be seen dead, huh? So anyway, over, over. The battery is finished, huh? Pfft.

Related:

Karl Lagerfeld on Lana del Rey, the Greek crisis and M.I.A.’s middle finger

Straight
outta ‘212’: Rapper Azealia Banks

Nine women, nine global cities all in KARL (PHOTOS)

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