Paris Fashion Week: S/S 2011

1  Céline: In what was easily the most-anticipated show of the week, Phoebe Philo showed a Spring/Summer 2011 collection that continued the key idea she introduced in the resort show season: loose, ivory, wide-leg trousers with bold strips of color down the sides. Color-blocked separates in equally relaxed shapes are sure to be as coveted as her minimalist beige and navy autumn pieces were. Expect to see the knockoffs in Zara come spring.

2  Chloe: Change is good. Just when it seemed fashion was giving us blush and camel overload, Hannah MacGibbon took a departure from the color palette she helped make famous. With an audience filled with editors wearing (you guessed it) camel and blush, MacGibbon sent models out in crisp whites, black and taupe with a single moment of red. The color palette  wasn’t the only major change. Her trademark ‘70s silhouettes were replaced with clean and thoroughly modern minimalist looks.

3  Rochas: In Marco Zanini’s best collection yet, models walked the runway in delicate looks that blurred the line between day- and sleep-wear. The inspiration came from a trip to the village Fjakelmyra, where he encountered  local artist, Slotts Barbro, who ended up making the traditional prints and florals that appeared on his separates and dresses throughout the show. The standouts were Zanini’s silk slip dresses in pale gray, indigo, black and chartreuse. They set the tone for this romantic show. The dresses came at knee length and as ankle-grazing, sheer gowns in the finale.

  Isabel Marant
: Top models from Carmen Kass to Freja Beha looked like the popular kids in school (and let’s face it, these leggy ladies kind of are) in blithe varsity jackets; pastel, cropped skinny jeans; cable-knit sweaters; the tiniest, flouncy mini skirts; and one cool rugby shirt dress. An ’80s hip-hop soundtrack set the young, feel-good tone which was bolstered by a color palette of pink, violet, black and blue.

Sonia Rykiel: Nathalie Rykiel sent out smiling models (so nice to see in the midst of so much serious fashion) wearing fun, mostly knit, dresses, A-line skirts, flared trousers, culottes and jumpsuits in mustard, red, chocolate, pink and blush. Best of all, she covered the season’s ubiquitous trends-(the ‘70s, color blocking, stripes) in a fresh, light-hearted way.


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