Reviews from the weekend at New York Fashion Week

A model walks the runway at the Vivienne Tam fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Metro’s style reporters Kenya Hunt and Tina Chadha took in the scene this weekend at New York Fashion Week. Which looks did they love? Find out below:

Alexander Wang
The details are what made Wang’s part sporty, part Fast and Furious (complete with graphic BMX helmets) clothes stand out from the other athletic flavored looks we’ve seen this week. The word “technical” appeared throughout his press notes for a reason, the collection was filled with small design feats from his mesh lasercut utility shorts, which featured pockets that cleverly revealed the hands tucked inside to the sheer inserts on a cargo skirt printed in Hawaiian style florals, an early contender for the best print of the season. –Kenya Hunt

Jason Wu
Sporty and street are not exactly words that come to mind when you think of Michelle Obama’s go-to designer, and yet he was able to own both ideas by interpreting them in his own polished, Wu-ian way. The beauty is that he experimented with the sporty trend, which we’re seeing just about everywhere this week, in a way that didn’t read too literal (because no girl wants to look like she just walked out of the gym). For instance, his lightweight, practically transparent parkas gave his bejeweled collared shirts and short-short pairings a subtle urban edge. It looked pretty and put together, but young and cool. The street references surfaced in the floral prints with hand drawn graphics he commissioned from the graffiti artist Kaws, a longtime fashion industry favorite. It all made for an impressive sign of growth for the designer and should expand his following even more. And for his girly girl loyalists:  evening wear that was 100% classic Wu — pretty bow belts, dramatic ball gown skirts and all. –Kenya Hunt

Rebecca Taylor
This season, Rebecca Taylor’s signature feminine dresses and skirts came down the runway in patchworks of silk, python print, and sheer fabric, sometimes worn with slouchy jackets for a more relaxed edge. For night (or day depending on how brave you are) there were shimmery pearl sequined pants and blouses with pailettes. Occasional pops of bright lemon and lime added a jolt of the unexpected. – Tina Chadha

Suno
There was much to love about the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund nominated duo’s spring collection: the polished, printed midi length dresses and the crisp white lace and multi-striped looks, to name a few. But we missed their trademark overtly ethnic prints, which were barely there. Overall, Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty’s work is evolving into a more grown-up and sophisticated place that feels a little less quirky and madcap than seasons past. The change feels kind of bittersweet. –Kenya Hunt

Prabal Gurung
Hello purple! Rising star Gurung’s collection of mostly party looks, which showcased the color as well as a floral print, took a 180 from the ruffles and bows that made him a red carpet designer of choice for ladies like Michelle Obama and Sarah Jessica Parker. This season, his looks featured erotic cut-outs, peek-a-boo sheer panels and even latex. The collection might be cool but it definitely looked like it was designed by a different person — which if you’re following Grugung on Twitter you’ll understand how much everything is changing for him. — Tina Chadha

Helmut Lang
For the first half of the show, creative directors Nicole and Michael Colovos deftly played with contrasting colors (looks were either all black, all white or black and white, with a yellow moment worked in) and lengths (the hemlines on tops, skirts and dresses rose high on one side and dipped low on the other.) But the dressier second half of the show — sexy, fluid jackets and draped and silk dresses, some with burned out patches —was the biggest hit. - Kenya Hunt

Yigal Azrouel
For the girl who can’t afford Céline, there’s Yigal Azroüel’s spring collection, which delivers a dose of similar minimalist cool. His girl doesn’t need a ton of accessories or embellishments to look like the baddest chick in the room – but those round-framed sunglasses that the models wore certainly helped. The show started off strong with simple, tailored separates in white and nudes – the pieces borrowed from menswear but still oozed sensuality thanks to high slits, feminine drapery and the use of fabrics such as silk chiffon. Other standouts included bold colored suits, boxy jackets, and a chic canvas and leather trench coat. -Tina Chadha

ADAM 
There are those days when you want to stay in your pajamas. And then there are those pajamas that are so beautiful, you never want to take them off. Adam’s spring collection was inspired by the High Line and the fashionable people who go there, but his clothes, such as a silky rose colored jacket and matching pajama bottom pairing or a sheer sleeveless trench with bathrobe-like pink piping, brought to mind the chicest of lounge wear. -Kenya Hunt

Vivienne Tam
Dressing for work next spring will be far from boring if designer Vivienne Tam has anything to do with it. She showed variety of suits (jackets worn with full length trousers or shorts) in rich reds and corals and used bold prints ( bamboo, tie-dye and floral) inspired by zen gardens and nature. Her Sunday afternoon style cotton shirt dresses, however, we could have lived without. — Tina Chadha

Costello Tagliapietra
It’s always a treat to see how the duo continues to refine their beautifully draped and gathered jersey dresses, this time pulling inspiration from the Forties. Their masterful execution proves that, in a time when trends rotate at whiplash pace, it’s sometimes wise to do one thing and do it very well. -Kenya Hunt

DKNY
Always good for a unique solution to city dressing, Donna Karan centered her spring DKNY collection around what she called “the step dress, shirt or skirt,” which is basically a fluid, silky little number that is short in front, long in back, and very chic when worn under a slightly coat or jacket. Take the blazer off after work and you’ve got a sexy nighttime look to hit the bars in. Other standouts were her mix of digital prints and paint splattered patterns, which were in tribute to the American art world, her muse of the season. -Kenya Hunt

Nicole Miller
For her take on the season’s ubiquitous sporty chic, Nicole Miller looked to the skate parks. The end result was funky Eighties prints of varying degrees of success. Some worked (any of the stripey looks) and others just left us dizzy (we’re looking at you, patchwork print leggings.) But the collection had some potential candidates for wardrobe staples as well such as a leather bomber jacket and bright orange flowing shirt. – Tina Chadha



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