Reviews from Paris Fashion Week

A model walks the runway during the Yves Saint Laurent Ready to Wear Spring / Summer 2012 show during Paris Fashion Week.

Chanel
In what turned out to be the week’s most gorgeous show, Karl Lagerfeld created an ivory, aquatic wonderland complete with a set made up of giant, seashells and coral reef; a live performance from Florence Welch; and most memorably, models dressed in ethereal dresses, suits, separates and swimsuits that looked like shimmering saltwater pearls. Lagerfeld’s collection was a standout moment because of its sheer size. Few designers today can produce such a large collection (a whopping 85 looks) with a singular vision that doesn’t look repetitive and maintains a couture-level quality from beginning to end. Every single piece had a subtle, underwater reference: drop waist dresses with scalloping that resembled scales, trim tweed suits with pearls tracing the waistline, iridescent trousers that brought to mind the smooth interior of an oyster shell, and foam-like chiffon ruffled skirts in frothy pink. It was a universally pretty collection, with a rarefied sensibility. And the excitement in the room was palpable. In short, this is what Paris Fashion Week is meant to be.


Chloé

In many ways, Chloé is a difficult house to take on. It still hasn’t fully recaptured its glory days when Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo made it the epitome of feminine cool. And even though its most recent creative director, Hannah MacGibbon, put her own clear stamp on the house (it was she who ushered in the Seventies comeback), her work never attracted the same must-have-it-now level of obsession that the brand had going for it before.  Enter Clare Waight Keller, the latest Brit to move into the French house, who debuted her first collection for Chloé on Monday. Her clothes had the breezy femininity the house has become known for in the form of drop waist dresses and soft, chiffon pleats. But she tempered the girly-ness with with cotton t-shirts and button-down blouses that were slightly tomboyish. It was a sweet collection, but it felt more like a quiet arrival than a momentous debut.


Givenchy

After last season’s vampy, sex kittens Riccardo Tisci’s quieter, romantic clothes for spring looked like a palette cleanser. Gone were the black cat graphics, latex and sheer skirts. Instead, he produced tailored jacket and short combos (a definite trend for spring) and trouser suits in the softest pink. They were wearable and practically sweet, a word you don’t normally associate with Givenchy. Not that the designer completely let go of his dark, subversive side. A series of slinky, mini dresses with strategically placed sheer cut-outs that revealed naked breasts underneath were classic Tisci. Overall, it wasn’t exactly a directional collection that established new trends in the way we’ve become used to seeing from Givenchy. But he pushed a few popular ideas forward, such as the peplum, which he remixed by rendering them in asymmetrical shapes and exotic skins. The collection could have done without a series of glittery disco bright dresses and suits, which looked more flash than substance.

Yves Saint Laurent
How do you show a collection in Paris, when you have been dogged by rumors about your job security? For the past few seasons, each of Pilati’s collections have been shown against speculation that his days at Yves Saint Laurent are numbered. But if the stressful circumstances caused internal chaos, it didn’t show on the runway. His sophisticated A-line coat dresses, elegant trouser suits, romantic cocktail dresses and dramatic evening gowns were all beautifully constructed and seemed to pay homage to the history of the house. Pilati’s jewel toned collection was cool and polished, perhaps too much so. Many of the clothes, such as his crisp jacket and skirts that opened the show, came off as cold and clinical in a way that Yves Saint Laurent was never really known for.



News
Entertainment
Sports
Lifestyle
National

US military tried, but failed to rescue journalist…

The U.S. military earlier this year tried to rescue journalist James Foley and other American hostages held in Syria ,but failed to find the captives.

National

Fate of captured beluga whales in hands of…

A Georgia aquarium went to court on Wednesday seeking federal permission to bring 18 captured beluga whales to the United States from Russia.

Local

After Eric Garner death, religious leaders meet to…

Interfaith leaders convened with city officials to discuss what the community can do to help dial down heightened tensions after Eric Garner's death.

Local

'Suspicious' Hamilton Heights fire caused by power strip:…

An extension cord overload caused the deadly fire in Hamilton Heights late Monday that killed a 15-year-old girl and injured at least 12 others.

Television

Billy Crystal to commemorate late actor Robin Williams…

  Comedian Billy Crystal will pay tribute to late actor Robin Williams at television's Primetime Emmy Awards on Aug. 25, the show's organizers said on…

Going Out

Things to do this week in NYC, Aug.…

GAMES Hudson Common Open Aug. 21, 7 p.m. Hudson Common 356 W. 58 St. Free, www.hudsoncommonnyc.com The U.S. Open begins on Monday, but most of…

Movies

Review: Sadly, Matthew Weiner's 'Are You Here' is…

"Mad Men" creator Matthew Weiner tries his hand at movies with "Are You Here," a misjudged Owen Wilson-Zach Galifianakis comedy that turns into a drama.

Movies

Review: 'Love is Strange' is not only a…

John Lithgow and Alfred Molina tie the knot in "Love is Strange," but the film winds up being more about living with people than an activist picture.

NFL

2014 Fantasy Football: Rankings, list of top NFL…

2014 Fantasy Football: Rankings, list of top NFL defense (DEF)

NFL

2014 Fantasy Football: Rankings, list of top NFL…

2014 Fantasy Football: Rankings, list of top NFL quarterbacks (QB)

MLB

Shane Greene travels unlikely road to Yankees stardom

Shane Greene was throwing a bullpen session on a quiet field at Daytona Beach Community College one day when the ball started moving.

NFL

2014 Fantasy Football: Rankings, list of top NFL…

2014 Fantasy Football: Rankings, list of top NFL tight ends (TE)

Sex

Online dating for every generation

Frank Jackson and his mother Maggie are like lots of modern families: They have dinner together regularly, keep each other updated on their lives —…

Wellbeing

Going green could be the key to getting…

If we could just pursue the things that would actually make us happy, we could help the environment too, according to a New York researcher.…

Wellbeing

Metabolic syndrome could have a sugar link

Scientists in St. Louis may have found another culprit in metabolic syndrome, which can lead to heart disease and type 2 diabetes.  Uric acid is…

Wellbeing

Another way stress hurts your unborn baby

Mothers know to try staying calm during pregnancy, as stress has been linked to behavioral and developmental problems for their babies. But now, a new…