New York Fashion Week Reviews: Mod, midriffs and even Mickey Mouse

Models display creations by designer Marc Jacobs.


1.  Marc Jacobs:

This September marks the 50-year anniversary of Andy Warhol’s famous “32 Campbell’s Soup Cans” and a major retrospective at the Met. So it’s not a complete surprise that the cooler than thou mod squad crept into the fashion ether.  At Marc Jacobs’ Spring show, models done up in severe side parts and smudgy black eyeliner reminiscent of Edie Sedgwick stormed the runway in bold black, maroon and beige stripes. The graphic appeared on shrunken blazers, trapeze jackets and low-slung midi skirts. Unlike the denizens of the Factory though, Jacobs’ is a career girl. Curvy dresses with scalloped hems, sensible skirt suits with long, lean silhouettes and ruffle collar separates would fit right in at an office — the midriff-baring cropped tops, including a black, full-sleeve version featuring Mickey Mouse, not so much. The show-ending series of gowns went from trippy prints back to stripes and wowed with sheer chiffon panels and sequins. In a week that saw a lot of the same ideas, Jacobs’ collection brought a new, leaner look to the table. That, coupled with the fact that fashion’s latest “it” girl, Leandra Medine of the blog Man Repeller, hosted the lifestream for the show would make Andy proud.   Tina Chadha


2. Donna Karan:

Donna Karan struck gold with her choice of materials for her Spring line. Sheer jersey and paper linen molded perfectly to create architectural silhouettes and artful pleats and folds. But the natural, organic feel of the fabrics paired with Karan’s use of dusty, cold-dyed colors gave the collection a dreamy tone. This effect of sharp lines and soft shades was meant to evoke “sunrise and sunsets in the city” — you know, those pretty moments when light reflects off skyscrapers. The cool, cropped jackets, worn over empire waist dresses, will be just what a city girl needs when those buildings’ air conditioning kicks into gear.  TC


3. Tibi:
Amy Smilovic once again nailed power dressing for hip girls. For Spring, she showed clean, smart, menswear-inspired separates such as slick, black leather peplum tops, simple T-shirt dresses and  light, over-sized chambray vests. There was also a beautiful series of laser floral cutouts. The piece de resistance: A baby blue suit with low slung trousers, boxy boyfriend jacket and croptop — you can just picture the carefree girl who wears it riding  waves at the beach before heading to work. TC


4. Timo Weiland:
The Timo Weiland show started quietly — with crisp white, of course — but it soon erupted in blown-up acid-yellow houndstooth prints and a rainbow of riotous zigzags. An obsession with Keith Haring and the artist’s role in the early hip-hop scene led to the graffiti graphics that punched up taupe pencil skirts, elegant car coats and flirty dresses. But at times, the 1980s references felt too heavy-handed; the models’ crimped high ponytails and faux cornrows certainly didn’t help.  Raquel Laneri


5. Chris Benz:

Chris Benz announced he has lowered his label’s price point, but you would never know based on the luxurious magpie rags he showed for Spring. Think granny chic, with youthful insouciance: crinkled floral fils coupe slipdresses worn with hexagon-print pants and matching jackets, or beaded poplin blazers mixed with carnation silk and lace. Benz also debuted a new denim line, featuring wide-legged trousers as well as skinny ankle jeans in gold, melon and pink — all worn under piles of jacquard, pailettes and lace, of course.


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