Reviews from New York Fashion Week

A model walks the runway during the Rodarte Runway Show.


1. Narciso Rodriguez:

In a week full of bland uniformity, Narciso Rodriguez showed New York how it’s done with the most accomplished, seductive and surprising show of the season. Rodriguez started subtly, with silk-crepe jackets and slouchy trousers that offered a relaxed, sexy alternative to the pantsuit. It only got better from there: blood orange tops spliced to the navel, flimsy slips shot with magenta and a series of jaw-dropping dresses and tees embroidered with thousands of beads and paillettes. Rodriguez juggled all of these elements with aplomb, making his couture-worthy pieces look as effortless as a pair of broken-in jeans.  Raquel Laneri


2. Marc by Marc Jacobs:
Marc Jacobs let his hair down with his secondary label. The models walking the runway, however, were another story, their locks thrown up in colorful scarves. The styling — urban babushkas, sandals worn with wooly socks and scarves galore — gave the collection a carefree, collegial vibe. His bohemian art students, not afraid to pile on prints or flirt with color, wore dresses with a hodgepodge of florals, paisleys and checkers. When pants did appear, they were rolled up at the ankles and worn with oversized boyish shirts. It was a youthful, strong outing that might just inspire you to play hooky.  TC


3. Rodarte:
Medieval princess warriors stormed the stage at Rodarte. It was a good thing, as New York Fashion Week desperately needs some fantasy. Never ones for the conventional, sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy showed brooding, strapless mini-dresses and skirts in patchworks of Jacquard, guipure, organza and silk, some with dangling chains and Swarovski embellishments. Their fringed leather jackets, woven tops and mixing of materials exuded couture and artistry. The looks at times felt cool and romantic (silk sculptural dresses and gowns with ivy prints), but otherwise seemed a little costume-y (dresses over body-clinging tops with a print that resembled the Incredible Hulk’s brawny torso).  TC


4. Diesel Black Gold:
For her last outing at Diesel Black Gold, designer Sophia Kokosalaki revisited the 1990s. Pro skateboarders performing tricks set the tone for the show, filled with low-slung pleated skirts (very “Clueless”), grungy peek-a-boo slip dresses and hip-hop-inflected, graffiti-sprayed jeans. Kokosalaki kept the clothes from looking retro by sticking with graphic black and white, keeping the silhouette slim and using on-trend fabrics like embossed leather. Especially appealing were the white motorcycle jackets and mannish, broad-shouldered blazers.  Raquel Laneri


1. J.Crew:
J.Crew’s playful mix-match looks, which earned it a spot at New York Fashion Week, went floral and poppy for Spring ‘13. Palm fronds livened up a simple blush shirtdress, a white pencil skirt with bold, bubble gum-pink blooms was paired with a contrasting yellow and orange millefleurs print shirt and a green, silk, floral knee-grazer came topped with sweet black-and-white polka dots. For those obsessed with the brand’s slim-fit statement pants: Get ready for gold jacquard and citrus-y floral.  TC


2. Boy by Band of Outsiders:

Inspired by “The War Games” and “Battle Royale,” designer Scott Sternberg started with models in military-reminiscent vests and blazers with white war paint streaked on their faces. But there was a soft calmness to the Boy by Band of Outsiders show. Billowy white maxi skirts, fringed sleeveless blouses and tye-dye prints on slouchy leather bermudas read more hippie than warrior. Sweet prints on a breezy cotton gown, a silky jade wrap skirt and drop-waist overalls sealed the deal: We’re in a time of love, not war.  TC


3. Nicole Miller:
For the past few seasons, Nicole Miller has dabbled with digital prints for her uptown-meets-downtown aesthetic. For spring, she showed manipulated versions of a tropical floral, starry galaxy and futuristic black and white tribal on sexy mini dresses, slouchy trousers and floaty asymmetrical blouses, the latter paired with leggings. The strongest pieces, however, were her timeless leather jackets and gray skirt suit with its beautifully draped coat.  TC


4. Edun
:
Sustainable fashion label Edun long ago proved that looking good and doing good weren’t mutually exclusive. But its spring collection was down­right sizzling — think Michael Bay action babe kicking butt in the Sahara. Camo-colored harness bras and rugged army jackets gave attitude to flirty chiffon minis and loosely wrapped kimono tops. Lin­en cargo shorts got a smattering of sequins — the opposite of granola.  RL



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