Reviews from New York Fashion Week

A model walks the runway at the Bibhu Mohapatra Spring 2013 fashion show.

1. Calvin Klein Collection:
In a week that nearly put everyone to sleep with repe­tition, Francisco Costa jolted editors back from their slumbers with his sexy Spring show. His lady — a powerful figure with a subversive side — wore fierce, eyebrow-raising looks that included an edgy black skirt suit with a cone-shaped bra and a feminine white strapless dress with a naughty, S&M-type mesh overlay. In addition to the erotic overtone, another story unraveled on the runway, one of masterful tailoring and artful fabric play (sheer knee-length skirts topped solid minis). It ended New York Fashion Week on a much-needed strong note.  Tina Chadha

2. J. Mendel:

The cascading wisteria of Japan’s Kawachi Fuji garden inspired Gilles Mendel’s very pretty Spring show. Polished, ladylike daywear in lace, chiffon and buttery soft leather preceded looks in bold iris florals and bright tangerine. And it wouldn’t be a J. Mendel show without the house’s show-stopping gowns. This season they were flowy, diaphanous, pleated numbers with sexy slits going up the thigh, gracefully billowing with every step the models took. The result was a glamorous, built-in wind machine effect — what more could stars on the red carpet ask for?  TC

3. Bibhu Mohapatra:

You won’t see track pants or varsity jackets on Bibhu Mohapatra’s runway, no matter how popular they are among his peers. The young designer specializes in ball gowns, and his show Wednesday contained plenty of those: an alabaster chiffon number with long sleeves and silver embroidery, or an onyx and chartreuse lace stunner with draped organza shards. He did throw some daytime looks into the mix, however, like a white peplum shift in a Luna Moth print and even (gasp!) cigarette pants.  Raquel Laneri

4. Nanette Lepore:

The infectious, catchy beats of The Brazilian Girls, who performed live, matched the upbeat tone of Nanette Lepore’s Spring presentation. The show opened with a picnic-tablecloth halter dress, with a wide woven belt and a swingin’ skirt, and continued with adorable checked shorts, bright one-piece bathing suits in a toile print and knit and lace dresses and rompers. Perfect for an evening spent dancing at the boardwalk.  RL


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