Reviews from Milan Fashion Week
Dolce & Gabbana
Have you ever been to Taormina in Sicily? No? Well, let Dolce & Gabbana take you there with their fun and colorful Spring collection. The duo took the audience from the Sicilian street theaters — dresses with wheelbarrows and Caltagirone ceramic –to sun drenched beaches with umbrella stripes. Looks came in organza, printed cotton and gold brocade. Sicilian basket-esque raffia skirts and bustiers closed the show.
After stepping away from her namesake brand for eight years, the German designer presented a show true to her aesthetic. Sander set out to create new proportions and fresh silhouettes in the spirit of constructivism. She played with proportions as dresses and blouses came fitted at the back and stood away from the body in the front, while the curved backs on coats provided sharp contrast to the fit at the front.
The opening silk pearl-grey looks, all shown with trousers (wide and straight leg), arrived as a cloud’s metaphorical silver lining. The dresses that followed, layered over transparent trousers, shown in a slightly varying aqua, pale blue and jade colored print, were luminous. White shorts styled with soft-fitted jackets were unexpected but brought a laid-back touch to this dressy collection. The items that stole the show, however, were the sparkly sequin palazzo pants.
Consuelo Castiglioni set out on the task of creating volume that appeared weightless to the eye. What followed was a collection that was full of pretty surprises and elegant drama that did not compromise wearability. The A-line silhouette was clean and sculptural, with the hemline ending at the knee. The folding and draping of the dresses, as well as the addition of peplums and pleats, created a sense of lightness. That said, it was the black wrap coat that had even the toughest editors sitting up in their seats — pure magic.