Dining at Water Street in Edgartown is a multi-sensory experience

GOB_NoshWaterStreetCrediEliDagostino_0627
Chef Shaun Brian Sells at work / credit: Eli Dagostino

You could almost forget the food and just drink in the view through the wraparound windows of the Harbor View Hotel’s aptly named restaurant, Water Street. You could, but it would be a mistake. Because, as idyllic as Water’s Street’s panorama is — picturesque views of the Edgartown lighthouse, the harbor, Chappaquiddick beach’s striped cabanas, old New England in miniature — their new summer menu might be even better. Their new fare is eclectic, even experimental, and commands attention.

Water Street’s chef Shaun Brian Sells balances the locavore movement’s back-to-naturism with molecular gastronomy’s scientific touches. The fruits of this marriage are evident in white balsamic pearls that invigorate the tongue, while his man-made vinegary caviar somehow piques the intellect. All senses are excited.

Here, the beauty lies mostly in simplicity. For summer, Sells lines up refreshing cucumber gazpacho with a smoked crema; a squid ink linguine with locally dug clams in a white wine and peppercorn broth; and pan-seared diver scallops with crisped fatty pork cheek, piquant watermelon radish, and a white miso dashi.

Sells and his team butcher and cure meat from a locally raised pig in-house and then slice the rich meat wafer-thin for their fine charcuterie platter. Fatty jowl, marbled shoulder, and leaner loin display varying degrees of lard and muscle, and are paired with in-house pickled vegetables.

On the sweeter side, a delicate panna cotta contains a passion fruit jam and peppery gingerbread, and a chocolate pate is paired with meringue and swirls of tangy balsamic caramel. Freshly made strawberry doughnuts and cocoa cupcakes are on the menu (which changes weekly) for Water Street’s Sunday brunch. After dinner here, one is tempted to get a room at the Harbor View and stick around for those doughnuts come morning light.


News
Entertainment
Sports
Lifestyle
National

Florida man charged with murdering son to play…

A Florida man annoyed that his 16-month-old crying son was preventing him from playing video games suffocated the toddler, police said on Friday.

International

Powerful 7.2 magnitude earthquake rattles Mexico

A powerful earthquake struck Mexico Friday, shaking buildings and sending people running into the street, although there were no reports of major damage.

News

OMG! Exercise can make skin (and butt) look…

A moderate exercise regime can turn back time and actually reverse the skin's aging process, according to new research. The study showed that a minimum…

International

Jews in eastern Ukraine ordered to register, Kerry…

Secretary of State John Kerry condemned reports that Jews in eastern Ukraine had been ordered to register with the authorities "or suffer the consequences."

Entertainment

Whoopi Goldberg makes her debut as marijuana columnist

"It helps my head stop hurting, and with glaucoma your eyes ache, and she takes the ache out. It's wonderful," she said.

The Word

Kate Middleton made fun of Prince William's bald…

Kate Middleton and Prince William are in Sydney, Australia, right now, and it sounds like that brash Aussie sense of humor might be rubbing off.

The Word

Is Tom Cruise dating Laura Prepon?

"Mission: Impossible" star Cruise is said to be dating Laura Prepon, star of "Orange is the New Black."

Television

'Scandal' recap: Season 3, Episode 18, 'The Price…

Sally is Jesus, Olivia caused global warming, and Mellie's still drunk. Let's recap the Scandal finale. A church full of Washington insiders is about to…

NBA

Carmelo Anthony agonizing over Knicks future as season…

There’s still the cloud hanging over the franchise’s head as to the pending free-agent status of All-Star forward Carmelo Anthony.

NFL

Jets host players with eye toward NFL Draft

The Jets hosted a number of NFL Draft hopefuls for workouts on Thursday, with an eye toward some under-the-radar players.

NFL

Chris Johnson: I wanted to go to 'a…

Now that Chris Johnson is a Jet, the team has to figure out if one of the most explosive players in the NFL over the last half decade has anything…

NHL

Rangers' speed versus Flyers' size makes interesting playoff…

Among the myriad aspects that will make this Metropolitan Division semifinal series fascinating will be the battle between the Rangers' speed and the Flyers' size,…

Tech

VIDEO: 'Vein-scanning' may become the future of paying

Designed to make transactions quicker and easier, the technology works by scanning the unique vein patterns in each person's palm.

Tech

#FollowFriday: 10 of the smartest Twitter accounts

Spending lots of time on Twitter? You might as well learn something. Here are some of the smartest accounts to follow.

Style

Light-up nail art syncs with phone

This Japanese technology syncs light-up nail art with your phone.

Wellbeing

Why is dance cardio taking off in NYC?

Instructors at some of the city's hottest classes explain why.