New York Fashion Week Day 6: J.Crew, Rodarte and more
Tuesday, Feb. 12
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9:20 a.m I’m running late to Tory Burch. A 9 a.m. show time is harsh after the grueling schedule of the last few days. Just as I arrive at the luxurious Pierre Hotel, where Tory actually lives, the show is starting. So I watch it standing by the door rather than in my seat. Seems I’m not the only one having issues this morning: Joe Zee, creative director of Elle, is right beside me in the late section. Under the glow of ornate chandeliers in the hotel’s ballroom, we watch as models in elegant, print-happy looks take the runway. Gustav Klimt’s gilded portraits of society ladies provided the inspiration for Tory’s pretty, bohemian fall outing. You see his influence in the heavy layering of patterns and textures such as a bold, floral jacquard dress worn over a wispy sparrow-print button-down. There’s also a good dose of Art Nouveau flourishes, namely necklaces with sparkly dragonfly pendants. This was so worth getting up early for. Tina Chadha
9:45 a.m I make my way to Lincoln Center and a model speeds past me, likely rushing to her next show. Her footwear: red and white Nike Air Jordans. Smart. TC
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10 a.m. At Steven Alan’s presentation a different bohemian scene unfolds, one rooted in modern-day Brooklyn. His hip working girls prefer relaxed suits with shrunken jackets and ankle length trousers. In one standout look, a striped shirtdress peaks out below a leather skirt and is topped with a pinstriped navy jacket. I can see this outfit working for just about any office. TC
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10 a.m.
The J.Crew presentation is so packed that I can hardly move. I see Julianne Moore looking flawless without makeup, a messy bun piled on top of her head. Joseph Altuzarra is just a few steps away, and Anna Wintour is here. J.Crew has become that kind of brand — a magnet for celebrities, top editors and fashion insiders that can still be huge with the mainstream. Kenya Hunt
10:20 a.m. Creatively, this collection nudges their trademark whimsical take on sportswear forward. The press notes explain that it was inspired by women’s wear designer Tom Mora’s vacation in Marrakech, particularly the bold, saturated colors, exotic prints and shiny tile work found around the city and its souks. That means lots of lush print-mixing, embroidery and beading — all signatures the women’s line has become known for. The workmanship on pieces such as a merino tee embroidered with hand-drawn Moroccan rug-style graphics and a camel herringbone coat embellished with chunky crystals along the lapel look as strong as many of the things I’ve seen in Milan. KH
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12 noon All the cool kids are at the Rodarte show. And the godmother of them all, Kim Gordon, is sitting front row. On the other side of the room, Anna dello Russo is holding court in Prada’s furry coat of the season and geisha-girl flatforms. One editor says, “She looks like a Japanese cloud.” KH
12:20 p.m. Sex and rock ‘n’ roll don’t exactly come to mind when thinking of Rodarte, so I’m surprised to see naked hip bones winking at me from underneath uber-high-cut bodysuits worn with low-rise trousers — Guns and Roses video girl style. On other looks, angel wings embroidered on silk wrap around torsos like tramp stamps. The sweeping finale gowns come tie-dyed. One of them has a see-through bodice embellished with roses. The clothes are a bit weird and all over the place, much like what you’d see in their hometown, Santa Cruz, which the collection is inspired by. And in an even weirder way, it works. KH
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2:30 p.m.: During a coffee break, I overhear photographers complaining about the celeb-free front rows this season. Even the front row at the Diesel Black Gold show was filled with unknowns, with Petra Nemcova being the starriest name there. So with no Jessica Alba to beat a path to, the paparazzi have instead been turning their attention to the celebrity bloggers this season. Bryanboy is the new J.Lo. KH
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5:20 p.m. Sophie Theallet knows a woman’s body. She creates clothes that subtly accent it — even her boxy coats can’t resist a slight curve. And so I’m impressed that the models walking her show right now aren’t of the toothpick variety: These are easily the most “real” looking girls I’ve seen so far. The clothes are real and practical, too: full knee-length skirts worn with contrasting shrunken sweaters and cocktail dresses for when a girl’s got to let her hair down. But it’s her closing series of gowns, covered up in the front and then — bam! — completely open in the back, that stun. TC
