THURSTY: New bar in Milton Steel & Rye is worth the trip

All the way to Milton? Tracy Witkin will make it worth the Rye.

Pretty much the only thing you really want to know when you read a review of a new restaurant or bar is whether or not you should go. For Steel & Rye the answer is straightforward: Do you live anywhere near the Milton/Dorchester line? If so, then yes, go yesterday. This easily became the best restaurant and bar in the area the day it opened. It’s probably worth a trip if you live in, say Watertown, and you have to drive 30 miles per hour all the way there in a dangerous snow storm, too.

The new opening from chef Chris Parsons (formerly of Parsons Table) and company brings a taste of city refinement to the suburbs, with a menu of elegant rusticity and daily catch creativity. The space itself, a near 7,000-square-foot re-purposed garage warehouse with 30-foot ceilings, an open kitchen and retractable walls for private dining is stunning. But for our purposes, bar-wise, it impresses as well.

The menu is a mix of classics with slight variations, and friendly introductions to lesser-appreciated spirits. The Mill takes bourbon, Cocchi Torino, sherry and Allspice Dram for a deep raisin nuttiness and bittersweet spice. The Verona By Night, made with vodka, grappa Combier Fruit Rouge, Maraschino, lemon and grapefruit, is on the sweeter end of the spectrum, but makes for a nice gateway to grappa.

Bar manager Tracy Witkin, recently of Foundry on Elm, says for the bar program, she wanted to bring closer to home the type of thing that neighborhood residents had been traveling into the city for, but with a comfortable, approachable style.

“It’s like living in Brookline or Newton,” I overheard one local guest say to his friend. And he’s right.

What to order
“I’m proud to have a Manhattan on the list,” Witkin says. “I know it’s a classic. It’s a very simple drink, but my small twist is the addition of Cardamaro [the wine-based digestif flavored with cardoon and blessed thistle], made with rye and served down. I’m tired of the Manhattan being served up. I’m a klutz, but when people order Manhattans you want to wrap your hands around a rock glass and have something comfortable.”

While the rye list is still in building stages (they plan to roll out a selection that fits the name in the coming months), the best option is the High West Rendezvous Rye, a versatile rye-forward recipe, alternating between hot spice and smooth sweetness, and the occasional touch of briny pickle.

Steel & Rye
95 Eliot St., Lower Mills, Milton
617-690-2787
www.steelandrye.com



News
Entertainment
Sports
Lifestyle
Local

60 artists to fill shipping containers with work…

Starting Thursday, 63 industrial shipping containers will fill Brooklyn Bridge Park at Pier 5 for Photoville 2014. The free exhibition was founded three and a…

Local

New York City agencies to provide healthcare, legal…

Child migrants who have recently arrived in New York City and are going through deportation hearings will now have access to services from multiple agencies,…

International

Hurricane Odile batters Mexico's Baja resorts, sparks looting

Hurricane Odile injured dozens of people, forced the evacuation of thousands and smashed shops open to looters in the popular tourist area of Baja, Mexico.

National

Apple iPhone 6 pre-orders hit record 4 million…

By Lehar Maan(Reuters) - Apple Inc said many customers will need to wait until next month for their new iPhones after a record 4 million…

Television

'Outlander' recap: Season 1, Episode 6: 'The Garrison…

Whipping, punching, kicking and a marriage contract. "Outlander" is not for the faint of heart this week with "The Garrison Commander."

The Word

The Word: Hey girl, it's a girl for…

It's a girl for Ryan Gosling and Eva Mendes, who reportedly welcomed a daughter last Friday, according to Us Weekly. The super-private couple managed to…

Television

TV watch list, Tuesday, Sept. 16: 'New Girl,'…

Check out the season premiere of "New Girl," as Jess competes with Jessica Biel for a guy's attentions.

Movies

Newsflash: Corey Stoll still not a man

In director Shaun Levy's "This Is Where I Leave You," Corey Stoll stars as the oldest of four adult children (the others are played by…

NFL

Tom Coughlin says Giants 'beat themselves' against Cardinals

Head coach Tom Coughlin, who had a day to cool off and reflect, still sounded like he had a gnawing feeling in his gut.

NFL

Marty Mornhinweg accepts blame for Jets timeout fiasco

Jets fans looking for a scapegoat for Sunday’s timeout fiasco found a willing party on Monday: Marty Mornhinweg.

NFL

3 things we learned in Jets loss to…

The wheels came off for the Jets, who gave up 21 unanswered points after a brilliant first 20 minutes in a 31-24 loss at the Packers.

NFL

Victor Cruz catches case of the drops in…

The Giants dropped a tough, 25-14, decision to the undermanned Cardinals Sunday in their home opener. And drop was the operative word of the day,…

Style

Rachel Zoe: New York Fashion Week Spring 15

Rachel Zoe goes 'Glam bohemia' for Spring.

Food

Where to find SweeTango apples

Introduced in 2009, SweeTango — a hybrid of Honeycrisp and Zestar — is a sweet apple with plenty of crunch.

Style

London Fashion Week recap

London Fashion week gets in on the action with politics, heritage and summertime living.

Food

Padma Lakshmi's recipe for green mango curry

Padma Lakshmi shares her recipe for green mango curry in UNICEF's new book, "UNICHEF."