Enjoy these NYC summer seafood dishes

Chef Cardoso plates his Branzino at ATRIO. Credit: ATRIO
Chef Cardoso plates his Branzino at ATRIO.
Credit: ATRIO

Summer seafood means lighter, zestier fish dishes than cold-weather counterparts. But there’s one ingredient when cooking fish that’s paramount, and doubly so for summer preparations.

“Cooking with fish means keeping it simple and that’s especially true in summer,” explains Antonio Cardoso, the new chef at ATRIO wine bar and restaurant in Battery Park City. “I’m from Portugal and fish and simplicity are very important to my culture. ATRIO has a Mediterranean influence, so I will be bringing that to the menu. For summer, that means fish that’s plain grilled, and avoiding heavy sauces. It also means seasonality, using summer produce. We’ll be getting great corn from the Hamptons. Tomatoes from New Jersey will be ripening. We have fennel, too — a citrus and fennel salad is perfect to accompany many fish dishes. I will also use vegetables and herbs from our rooftop garden.”

Cardoso favors local species for a lower environmental impact and freshness. The latter results in the best possible flavor.

“For summer, I’ll have local scallops, pan-roasted with a sweet corn puree; Long Island and Jersey shore striped bass will still be plentiful. I’ve been doing that with a pea puree and tender young cauliflower. Branzino isn’t local, but it’s very popular in the Mediterranean,” Cardoso says of this flavorful bass-like fish. “It’s very versatile.”

Branzino is usually served whole, but Cardoso filets and pan-roasts his till just browned on top. He layers with roasted eggplant puree and his rooftop vegetable crudo, including a thick ribbon of raw zucchini on top of the fish.

“I will bring the simplicity of Mediterranean summer cooking,” Cardoso adds, “which often means fish straight from the water with little more than lemon and olive oil.”

Go fish!

New York City boasts many fine seafood restaurants – Marea, The Mermaid Inn, Pearl Oyster Bar – but, elsewhere, many chefs have favorite summer fish preps: At SoHo Caribbean restaurant Miss Lily’s, Suzanne Couch pairs Long Island black sea bass with coconut rundown sauce, which includes curry spices, coconut, and, unusually, thyme. And at the Paramount Bar and Grill, chef Jason Kallert’s whole branzino is miraculously de-boned in the filet and lightly grilled. Kallert serves it with sautéed fennel from Upstate New York, a nutritious, parsley-rich fresh salsa verde and a grilled lemon.

If you go

ATRIO Restaurant and Wine Bar, 102 North End Ave., 646-769-4250.
Miss Lily’s, 132 West Houston St., 646-588-5375.
Paramount Bar and Grill, 235 W. 46th St., 212-827-4116.



News
Entertainment
Sports
Lifestyle
Local

MTA announces service changes for Sunday

The MTA has announced service changes ahead of Sunday's People's Climate March, which will be held from 11:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Sunday. Riders using…

Local

NYPD launches Twitter account for L train

The NYPD recently launched a Twitter handle dedicated to the L train and its riders. According to @NYPDLtrain, officers went underground Thursday morning to hand…

Local

Bushwick community space offers activists a place to…

A new Bushwick community space offers community activists to meet, create, learn and throw back a few cold ones. MayDay, located 214 Starr Street in Bushwick,…

Local

Activists gearing up for Sunday's "historic" People's Climate…

If all goes according to plan, more than 100,000 people will gather near Central Park West on Sunday morning and march through midtown to raise…

Movies

Review: Terry Gilliam's 'The Zero Theorem' is better…

Terry Gilliam's latest, "The Zero Theorem," concerns a reclusive malcontent (Christoph Waltz) struggling with the search for the meaning of life.

Music

Esperanza Spalding and a being called Emily get…

Esperanza Spalding is about to spiral off in a brand new direction that may or may include an alter ego named Emily.

Movies

Review: Bickering family dramedy 'This is Where I…

A talented cast sits Shiva in the bickering family dramedy "This is Where I Leave You," although it's more sap than yuks.

Movies

Review: Desert-walking movie 'Tracks' would be better as…

Mia Wasikowska walks 1700 miles across Australia's deserts in "Tracks," in a story that defies triumph-of-the-spirit cliches but gets some of them anyway.

NFL

J.J. Watt poses unique challenges to struggling Giants…

Watt, arguably the best defensive player in the league, is the leader of a surprising Texans (2-0) team that has already matched last season’s win total.

NFL

Eric Decker 'unlikely to play' against Bears: Source

Jets wide receiver Eric Decker's status for Monday night’s game against the Bears is in doubt after he missed practice again Wednesday.

NFL

Preston Parker, not Odell Beckham, will replace Jerrel…

Tom Coughlin noted the next man up will be unheralded veteran Preston Parker.

NFL

NFL Week 3 full schedule (kickoff time, TV)

NFL Week 3 full schedule (kickoff time, TV)

Parenting

A sneaky way to serve kids fruits and…

"My First Juices and Smoothies" gives smoothie recipes for kids.

Style

3 things we love from Day 1 of…

The highlights from Day 1 of Milan Fashion Week.

Sex

Why don't more couples use condoms?

  Call it the “condom moment.” That’s the name the authors of a new study have given to the pivotal conversation every couple should be…

Sex

Need an idea for a first date? Here's…

Picture your idea of a nice first date. Is it dinner and a movie? A visit to an interesting museum exhibit? Instead, an expert on…