Dining at Water Street in Edgartown is a multi-sensory experience

GOB_NoshWaterStreetCrediEliDagostino_0627
Chef Shaun Brian Sells at work / credit: Eli Dagostino

You could almost forget the food and just drink in the view through the wraparound windows of the Harbor View Hotel’s aptly named restaurant, Water Street. You could, but it would be a mistake. Because, as idyllic as Water’s Street’s panorama is — picturesque views of the Edgartown lighthouse, the harbor, Chappaquiddick beach’s striped cabanas, old New England in miniature — their new summer menu might be even better. Their new fare is eclectic, even experimental, and commands attention.

Water Street’s chef Shaun Brian Sells balances the locavore movement’s back-to-naturism with molecular gastronomy’s scientific touches. The fruits of this marriage are evident in white balsamic pearls that invigorate the tongue, while his man-made vinegary caviar somehow piques the intellect. All senses are excited.

Here, the beauty lies mostly in simplicity. For summer, Sells lines up refreshing cucumber gazpacho with a smoked crema; a squid ink linguine with locally dug clams in a white wine and peppercorn broth; and pan-seared diver scallops with crisped fatty pork cheek, piquant watermelon radish, and a white miso dashi.

Sells and his team butcher and cure meat from a locally raised pig in-house and then slice the rich meat wafer-thin for their fine charcuterie platter. Fatty jowl, marbled shoulder, and leaner loin display varying degrees of lard and muscle, and are paired with in-house pickled vegetables.

On the sweeter side, a delicate panna cotta contains a passion fruit jam and peppery gingerbread, and a chocolate pate is paired with meringue and swirls of tangy balsamic caramel. Freshly made strawberry doughnuts and cocoa cupcakes are on the menu (which changes weekly) for Water Street’s Sunday brunch. After dinner here, one is tempted to get a room at the Harbor View and stick around for those doughnuts come morning light.


News
Entertainment
Sports
Lifestyle
News

OMG! Exercise can make skin (and butt) look…

A moderate exercise regime can turn back time and actually reverse the skin's aging process, according to new research. The study showed that a minimum…

News

Mets mascot Mr. Met target of Bill Clinton…

Mets mascot Mr. Met has told how he ended up in the crosshairs of a Secret Service sniper rifle. The man behind the Mr. Met…

Local

Oval oasis: Summer of fun kicks off this…

A bold partnership between the Fairmount Park Conservancy and the city's Parks and Recreation Department is kicking off this weekend with family activities re-activating this unused public space.

Local

African couple claiming misidentification in robbery case to…

At a bail hearing today for Vickson and Lorfu Korlewala, charged in the robbery of an 80-year-old woman, bail was reduced from $1 million total to $500,000.

Television

'Scandal' recap: Season 3, Episode 18, 'The Price…

Sally is Jesus, Olivia caused global warming, and Mellie's still drunk. Let's recap the Scandal finale. A church full of Washington insiders is about to…

Movies

Review: 'Transcendence' is not stupid but sometimes lacks…

The cyberthriller "Transcendence" explores artificial intelligence, nanotechnology and other ethical quandaries, but has too much ambition, if anything.

Television

Dick Wolf to bring fictionalized world of 'Law…

A&E has ordered a pilot called "D.O.A." from "Law and Order" mastermind Dick Wolf that will focus on real detectives reexamining cold cases. A trio…

Television

Shane West talks WGN America's 'Salem'

The actor on history lessons, a new network and showing his butt.

NHL

Rangers draw first blood against Flyers in Game…

Brad Richards and Derek Stepan scored power-play goals 47 seconds apart to lead the Rangers to a 4-1 win.

MLB

Jimmy Rollins is key to Phillies success

When John Kruk was asked about what the Phillies need to contend for a playoff berth, the ESPN analyst said Jimmy Rollins needs to play like a MVP again.

MLB

Ben Revere lifts Phillies to avoid sweep

Ben Revere came through with a two-out RBI single against Atlanta’s tough lefthander Alex Wood.

NBA

Season wrap: 76ers make the grade

The 76ers opened the 2013-14 season with a victory over the Miami Heat. The Sixers closed the season with a win at Miami.

Style

Light-up nail art syncs with phone

This Japanese technology syncs light-up nail art with your phone.

Wellbeing

Why is dance cardio taking off in NYC?

Instructors at some of the city's hottest classes explain why.

Travel

Earth Day travel in the Florida Keys

See why this eco-friendly destination deserves your attention.

Tech

Sorry, Facebook — FarmVille goes mobile with 'Country…

Zynga has released a version of the hit "FarmVille" tailored for smartphones and tablets in the hope of reaping a bumper crop of players.