Waban Kitchen strives for culinary perfection

Executive Chef Jakob White // credit: Erin Baldassari
Executive chef Jakob White mans the helm at Waban Kitchen. Credit: Erin Baldassari

Waban Kitchen is the second restaurant from Jeff Fournier (nearby 51 Lincoln’s chef/owner), whose artwork hangs on the walls of this hidden gem, handily situated just opposite the Waban train stop.

Fournier still helms 51 Lincoln’s kitchen, leaving chef Jakob White — who has worked under Fournier since he graduated culinary school — to take the helm at Waban. It’s a post he’s clearly suited for, as the young restaurant’s (open just 10 months) 10 tables fill up quickly and its bustling bar provides an alternate perch at which to try the menu’s host of self-described “perfect” dishes. First, Waban’s Perfect Deviled Eggs. Served as four halves instead of the standard trio, they’re good but fairly unremarkable, save for a little dot of caviar as garnish.

The Perfect Green Salad, on the other hand, strives to live up to its name. The sizeable salad has texture, a mix of barely chopped crisp and fluffy lettuces topped with crunchy toasted pine nuts. It’s perfectly seasoned and lightly dressed, leaving chunky juliennes of preserved Meyer lemon peel and spicy raw garlic to deliver occasional but huge hits of sharp flavor. Even its aroma, pre-first bite, is intoxicating.

Onward in our pursuit of dining perfection, we find a seasonal local striped bass served with a creamy salmarilglio, a southern Italian fish sauce (like an eggless, vegan hollandaise) that delivers a kick of spicy garlic. The generously sized, pesto-topped filet is accompanied by thick slices of seedy cucumber, salted and watering to form a jus, cherry tomatoes and jasmine rice. It is a fairly idyllic amalgam of local seasonal produce.

Eating at Waban kitchen should come with a pre-dinner note: “Save room for pie!” Apart from an extraordinary cinnamon and rosemary ice cream, dessert here is all about the pie. Their pies are baked in-house each day and include such delights as a peanut butter mousse topped with dark chocolate ganache and served with a large dollop of sweetened crème fraiche. If not a perfectly sweet ending to a meal, it’s one that comes close.

Waban Kitchen
1649 Beacon St., Newton
Entrees: $24-$36
617-451-6372
wabankitchen.com


News
Entertainment
Sports
Lifestyle
International

'Barack Obama cheats on Michelle' claims Japanese politician…

A senior Japanese politician has marred Barack Obama's official visit to Tokyo with bizarre claims that the President cheats on his wife Michelle. Kazuyuki Hamada,…

International

British Royal family devastated by freak NY death…

The British royals have been left devastated by the death of Mark Shand, younger brother of Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, after a freak fall in…

Local

Philadelphia principal has President Obama's ear

The West Philadelphia head is gathering ideas to present to the White House.

Local

Neighbors testify at Overbrook roommate slaying trial

Neighbors and roommates were called to testify Wednesday in the trial of Renaldo Robichaw, 56, charged with murder for the death of roommate Albert Smith, 48.

Television

‘Survivor: Cagayan’ recap: Episode 9

It was only an hour-long episode, but there's a lot to cover this week. The drama of Survivor strikes again as the identity of the…

Television

TV watch list, Wednesday, April 23: 'Suburgatory,' 'Modern…

'Suburgatory' The men of "Suburgatory" go camping and Tessa mentors a social outcast in a Miss Chatswin contest, which brings her, once again, into conflict…

Movies

Latin culture highlighted at Filadelphia film fest

Get ready to have a “Bad Hair” day at the upcoming Filadelphia Latin American Film Festival. We mean that in the best possible way. The…

The Word

The best lines from Oprah's ex-stepmother's Daily Mail…

Oprah’s ex-stepmother, Barbara Winfrey, is out for revenge.

NFL

2014 NFL Mock Draft: Updated, new April 24…

2014 NFL Mock Draft: Updated, new April 24 version

NFL

Eagles will spend Thanksgiving in Dallas, play four…

The Eagles have an impressive, challenging and exciting schedule in 2014.

NFL

NFL releases Eagles 2014 schedule

The Eagles have four primetime games, face the Cowboys on Thanksgiving and host the Seahawks in a dynamic, challenging and impressive schedule.

NHL

All signs suggest Steve Mason will start in…

Flyers head coach Craig Berube elected to put Steve Mason in net for the final minutes of Game 3.

Style

Pippa Middleton's Etsy pick: Golden Thread Jewelry

Get a look at the jewelry Pippa Middleton loves and find out how you can buy it too.

Parenting

What every parent needs to know to get…

Mom and author of "Small Talk," Tracey Blake, shares her five practical tips to help you develop your children's language skills.

Sex

Subway crush: Meet your soulmate on your commute

Read about a couple who has been 40 years after meeting on the train.

Tech

Happy birthday, Game Boy! The handheld console turns…

Nintendo's Game Boy turns 25 this week. To commemorate, we look at some of its better games, like "Tetris" and "The Legend of Zelda: Link’s Awakening."