London Fashion Week shows off texture, sequins and fur
Sunday, 2:54 p.m.
People seem flustered in a low-blood-sugar way at the Tate Modern where the Topshop Unique show is taking place, which is surprising considering how much food and Champagne is being served. Fashion Week lesson No. 1: Don’t listen to what the Skinny Minnies say, always eat the food. And Kate Moss is here! How can that not make a fashion lover smile? I also spy Kendall Jenner, who has interestingly been seated next to Anna Wintour.
Like many of the shows we’ve seen this season, outerwear rules here. The belted, voluminous blanket coats — which come in blue mohair or patchwork swatches of fur in rust, pink and red — are the clear winners in a highly sellable lineup of coats and jackets for every kind of girl. Sporty? Try the cropped puffer with dolman sleeves. A more polished 9-to-5 type? See the long, lean wool coats with contrasting fur panels in front. These are the looks we’ll see real women wearing next September. But the tiny shorts and sheer embellished bodysuits? Not so much. And the bodysuits look derivative, mostly because Rodarte owned that idea last fall. It’s with these weaker moments that an otherwise strong collection loses its way.
The trends: Plays on texture and voluminous outerwear
This is Matthew Williamson’s first collection with new head of design Danielle Scutt and the brand seems to have taken a fresh turn that’s clear with the opening look: a duck-egg-blue double-breasted coat, worn with a red and white polka dot blouse and neon yellow lace-up boots. It’s a more urban look than anything we’ve seen from the brand before. The following looks combine Williamson’s trademarks (florals that pop, splashy embellishments and bold uses of color) with a new eccentric, pop art sensibility. The embroidered coats with patterns inspired by Turkish rugs feel much more traditionally Williamson, as do the long flowing patterned gowns and the fluffy cropped jackets. There’s also plenty of celestial embellishment. The finale look — a sequined black and white gown with an optical illusion print — nails it. Now, which one of his glamorous front row gal pals — which today include Coco Rocha — will wear it first?
The trends: Technicolor brights with a vaguely retro feel