Mark Katrantzou’s transformative moment

Mary Katrantzou: Runway - London Fashion Week AW14
For more visit www.modmods.com

Sunday

6:02 p.m.
It’s always interesting to see how a designer’s usually obscure cultural reference points play out in a collection. Having done countless pre-show interviews, I often chuckle at how far ‘out there’ their inspiration points are — the way the shadow falls across a Pre-Raphaelite stunner’s face in a Victorian painting, a random old tile (always a tile!) from a Byzantine mosaic at the V&A, the unique timbre in the scream of a Hitchcock heroine heard during a video art piece on display in a gallery in Berlin, you get the idea. So I’m surprised by just how normal the points of inspiration for Mary Katrantzou’s collection are. Her press notes mention an exploration of the symbols that signify the regular people we see every day: city bankers, bakers, construction workers and butchers. Not a single sentence about a mosaic tile in sight.

6:20 p.m.
It’s hard to see the butcher or construction worker’s influence in this collection, which is so rarefied and beautiful in an almost medieval way. There’s nothing simple or regular about it, even if it is Mary’s most wearable outing yet. I can’t see how her intensely decorative dresses will translate to everyday life. Even her sweatshirt, done in fur and embellished with embroidered crests, looks like the sort of lofty thing that would be out of reach to any girl whose name isn’t Miroslava Duma. What’s notable about this collection, which (let’s be clear) is breathtaking, is the level of handiwork that apparently went into her embroidery, pleating and lace. And it’s a transformative moment in her career because she’s noticeably moved away from the very thing that made her famous: those dizzying digital prints. And she’s done so at precisely the right time, stopping two seasons short of one-note territory.

The mood
International editors, power buyers and general insiders high on that feeling of having witnessed a memorable fashion moment (there’s really loud cheering during Mary’s finale walk.)

What this will mean for your wardrobe:
Not an awful lot, other than the fact that this is another example of how pleating will be big come fall. And if you’re the kind of woman who regularly wears expensive works of art, this will be another collection to covet.

Major trends: Pleating, embellishments and those now ubiquitous plays on texture.



News
Entertainment
Sports
Lifestyle
Local

Federal mediator joins Met Opera labor talks as…

Unions representing the orchestra and chorus of the Met Opera agreed to have a federal mediator join labor talks on Thursday as a threatened lockout loomed.

Local

Winning $7 million New York lottery ticket sold…

The only $7 million winning New York Lottery ticket for Monday's Cash4Life drawing was sold at a Queens 7-Eleven, officials said on Tuesday.

Local

Brooklyn man charged in roommate's stabbing death

A Brooklyn man accused of violently stabbing his roommate to death on Monday is in police custody and faces murder charges.

International

Dinosaurs could have survived asteroid strike

It turns out there is a good and a bad time for the planet to be hit by a meteor, and dinosaurs were just unlucky.…

Movies

Review: 'Guardians of the Galaxy' is a refreshingly…

Marvel is sitting so high on a cash mountain that it's now thrown $170 million at the relatively obscure and very silly title "Guardians of the Galaxy."

Movies

Review: 'Get on Up' is a war between…

James Brown finally gets his own boring biopic with "Get on Up," but the Godfather of Soul puts up a good fight against the usual cliches.

Movies

Review: 'Child of God' finds director James Franco…

James Franco's 11th directed feature is a noble but sloppy adaptation of Cormac McCarthy's "Child of God," about a feral mountain man (Scott Haze).

Movies

Review: Alex Gibney's Fela Kuti doc 'Finding Fela'…

Prolific documentarian Alex Gibney takes on Afrobeat god Fela Kuti in "Finding Fela," but fails to capture his unique essence.

MLB

Yankees land Stephen Drew, Martin Prado at trade…

Yankees land Stephen Drew, Martin Prado at trade deadline

College

Playing the Field: Valentine's Day coupling edition

  It’s Valentine’s Day, a day created by Hallmark to make couples spend loads and loads of money on candy, flowers and gourmet dinners. Or…

MLB

Angelo Cataldi: Ryan Howard deserves better from Phillies

Just last week, Ryan Howard endured the embarrassment of a benching that was inevitable, and yet still shocking.

NFL

Larry Donnell has inside track in Giants tight…

Little-known Larry Donnell of Grambling State currently has the inside track, as the second-year player has received the bulk of the first-team reps.

Career

What do you wear to a career fair?…

Getting that gig starts with presenting the most polished and memorable version of yourself, so refer to our expert fashion advice.

Style

Editors pick: Margiela's finger armor ring

These cool rings from Maison Martin Margiela are designed to overlap over the finger, covering each joint like armor.

Style

Givenchy champions diversity

Riccardo Tisci's uses a variety of ethnically diverse ladies for his spring campaign including Erykah Badu.

Wellbeing

Don't settle for the hotel fitness center with…

Travelers who want to skip the hotel fitness center in favor of local gyms that may offer better equipment, classes and amenities can turn to…