Peter Pilotto and the Target factor

Peter Pilotto: Runway - London Fashion Week AW14

Monday

3:59 p.m.
On my way into Peter Pilotto, sidestepping the usual throng of photographers, I see Tommy Ton draped in something that looks vaguely familiar. He’s busy shooting so I approach his longtime friend, Phil Oh. ‘Is Tommy wearing the same Burberry blanket that closed out the Burberry show just now?’ I ask him. Phil smiles, “Mmmmhmmmm. One of the models didn’t want it so she gave it to him,” he says.

4:15 p.m.
The clothes: they are masterfully constructed exercises in texture, colour and dimension. That’s to be expected from Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos. What catches me by surprise, in a good way, is that there’s less emphasis on their digital prints. Like Mary Katrantzou, the duo has chosen to advance their trademark to someplace new. And similarly, they’ve done it through an intense amount of decoration though with an end result that looks wholly their own. They based the collection on ‘contrasts and extremes’, which is pretty clear. I’d say that they’ve definitely pushed the use of texture to the limit. There’s fur and bugle beads and pearls and sequins and intarsia and jacquards and embroidery — sometimes on a single outfit. Even the puffer jacket, which has forever been limited to boring black and olive green, gets covered in colour, a panoramic mountain vista. That said, a woman doesn’t exactly look to Peter Pilotto for minimalism, and they’ve executed its opposite well. I’m just not sure what this collection will mean for them, right now. These are serious, lofty clothes, which is an interesting move considering that they have a fun-loving, lower-priced collection currently in Target stores. The chasm between the two collections is so wide. There’s extreme for you.

The mood
Serious women, in seriously intricate clothes.

The major trends
Oversized proportions, experiments with texture, and loads of embellishments

What this will mean for your wardrobe
The strong temptation to to invest in beadwork, sequins and fur.



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