Spice up your life

INTERVIEW. Dalia Jurgensen had some doubts about her desk job. But instead of just having an extra drink (or three) come 5 o’clock, she enrolled in culinary school and cooked her way through kitchens of all shapes and sizes, including Martha Stewart’s. Now a pastry chef at Brooklyn’s Dressler, Jurgensen is dishing on the experience in her new memoir, “Spiced” ($24.95, G.P. Putnam’s Sons). Whether you’re contemplating trading your Post-its for a whisk or are simply curious about last night’s crème brulee, it’s an eye-opening read.

Did you ever regret leaving your publishing gig for the kitchen?
Not at all. Most chefs will tell you their worst nightmare would have to be sitting at a desk. If there’s one thing I miss, it’s the stability of health insurance. That was nice.

You’ve had quite a few jobs in the kitchen — why stick with pastry?
I think I gravitated to the pastry world because it’s more sane. I liked the heat and the speed, but I also like the slightly more cerebral lifestyle I have now.

Is Martha as perfect as she seems?
In my experience, yes. It really all is as beautiful as it looks on TV.

What do you make for dessert at home?
My kitchen is really small, so I generally don’t do anything too complicated due to lack of counter space and an uncalibrated oven. Sometimes coming home can be really disappointing when you’re used to endless ovens and food processors and supplies.

You go into it in “Spiced,” but ultimately, has being a woman in this industry held you back?
At the end of the day, if you’re working on the line with three guys and you’re faster and your food tastes better, the proof is in the pudding.