The moral of the Tory

New tenant in the Greenhouse needs a little nurturing

Tory Row, the new kid on the Square, has a name steeped in history and is hoping to soon be synonymous with suds. The spare décor might give you déjà vu; this stalwart venture is from the stable of the group who gave us Miracle of Science, Middlesex Lounge, Cambridge 1, and Audubon Circle. They’ve certainly invested in the neighborhood, even going so far as to hire a Harvard Design School grad to create the establishment. For those of you who frequented the former tenant, Greenhouse Coffee Shop, you won’t believe your eyes and will be pleasantly surprised to note that the blueprints included restrooms.

The sliding glass front of the restaurant creates a human fishbowl effect: blasé hipsters can pretend not to be seen while surreptitiously sneaking peeks from atop their Ray-Bans at the passers-by. Unfortunately for us and our overactive sweat glands, the sweltering night we visited, the front didn’t open completely. Despite our prime people-watching perspective, we nearly expired in the corner where no breeze could reach us.

My loaded cheeseburger was outfitted with all the usual trappings — lettuce, pickle, onion, and tomato — but the tough ciabatta roll coupled with an overcooked patty that was ordered medium rare fell short of greatness. The curious potato rosti played the role of French fry; the pancake was dry and unpalatable, even the tomato-onion chutney couldn’t provide depth of flavor. Only beer, wine, and bubbles are available to wash down your vittles.

Art appreciators and haters will certainly notice that Shepard Fairey’s work is prominently displayed on the back wall, an actual repurposing of the installation he tagged upon the under construction storefront. There’s no denying it: Tory Row definitely stands out in a crowd. I’m just hoping their future is filled with more substance than style.

Tory Row
3 Brattle St., Cambridge
MBTA: Red Line to Harvard
617-876-TROW
www.toryrowus.com