Neptune is out of this world

Salem Street oyster joint delivers on the bivalves, burgers and bubbly

intoxiKATEd. Peek in the doorway of the North End’s Neptune Oyster any night of the week, and you’ll probably find it packed to the gills.

The wait at the tiny Salem Street locale can be lengthy, but once you’re seated, settle in for a leisurely-paced feast of bivalves and burgers and bubbly (oh my!).

If you’ve never tried oysters, you want your first time to be here. Their clever menu describes the slippery little suckers down to their tasteful finish: think popcorn, butter, honeydew or watermelon. It’s a fun foodie game to see if you’ve got a discerning palate; we found Fanny Bay’s cucumber essence delightful.

My experience has always been that the strangest sounding menu item is often a diamond in the rough (or a pearl in the oyster, as it were). The Vitello Tonnato — tuna tartare, thinly sliced roasted veal, cucumber salad, and spicy mustard on thick buttery toasted bread — seems stuffed with odd ingredients, but sparkles with every balanced bite.

I’ve never cleaned my plate here, not for lack of trying, but due to the titanic portions. My associate’s main meal, the Crab Louis salad was topped with more crab than should be legal for under $20. A giant and juicy burger is an intense experience in and of itself, but the Neptune Burger improves on tradition by crowning theirs with fried oysters.

Beer, wine and the aforementioned bubbles (sample one of their fresh and fruity Bellinis) make up the thirst-quenching portion of the menu. If you’re undecided on a liquid landing, the erudite staff will help you pick a pour that best enhances your meal.

Bowls of huge homemade oyster crackers are served gratis with your meal. We found one that actually looked like it was smiling, (see below) fittingly summing up our feelings as well.

Neptune Oyster
63 Salem St., Boston
MBTA: Orange or Green Line to Haymarket
617-742-3474
www.neptuneoyster.com