B&G gets big praise

But be warned: Oyster restaurant does cost big bucks

 

 

New England is known for its overpopulation of lobster rolls — when summer weather (remember that?) hits, the crustaceans practically crack themselves, bathe in mayo, and lay down in a roll to soak up the sun. As far as I’m concerned, the best does not require a tank’s worth of gas to drive to Cape Cod or Maine. Right in the South End of our fair city, B&G Oysters serves up their superior succulent spin on the classic dish.

Just around the corner from Tremont Street, the subterranean terrace is the perfect spot to wile away a summer weekend. Since we’re all moments away from building an ark, patios are unfortunately a moot point right now. As soon as the rays deign to peek out from behind the clouds, join the marathon of lobster lovers sprinting for seats at the backyard oasis to enjoy vino and vittles.

Though I prefer the irreverence of the oyster offerings in last week’s column, there’s no denying that the freshness and quality at B&G is really top drawer. Service can be somewhat slow and undoubtedly aloof: You might use your lobster cracker to break the ice with your server too.

Their bar consists of a carefully edited list of beers, wine, and of course, bubbles.

Careful how much you imbibe, the scary spiral staircase to the loo will have you clutching your heart on the way down.

You know I love me some BLT, but adding lobster sends me into paroxysms of pleasure. Even the accompaniments here — homemade slaw, butter pickles, and crispy, salty fries — are more than just sides. Groaning, you’ll lick your plate clean. Don’t be fooled though, this is a posh pigout.

When your bill arrives, you’ll wish you’d found a pearl in one of your oysters.

B&G Oysters
550 Tremont St., Boston
617-423-0550
MBTA: Orange Line to Back Bay or Silver Line to Union Park Street
www.bandgoysters.com