Paul pays delicious tribute

 

 

FOOD. Understated simplicity can be the best way to honor the beloved deceased, like JFK’s eternal flame, the solitary tomb memorializing thousands of unknown soldiers, and a headstone reading “Billy Mays Here.” Honoring a late patriarch through unpretentious fare and decor, Paul.

Named after the owners’ recently deceased father — who, despite owning a corner pizzeria and Effie’s on the same block long dreamed of opening a homey bistro-type hangout — Paul is a cozy 28-seat BYO with high ceilings, pale gray walls and dark tables, all anchored by a black-and-white photo of the restaurant’s namesake.

Keeping in line with the minimalist theme, apps are limited to six thoughtful choices, including lemon-infused balsamic ceviche with yellowfin tuna and crab spring rolls in a sambal soy reduction with shiitake and shiso — an herb that’s heavy, according to the Beatles.

Six is the magic number for entrees as well, from chicken breast with farro risotto in Madeira jus to marinated veal skirt steak with chorizo saffron rice and baby bok choy — because adolescent bok choy’s not to be trusted around anything with a skirt.

Paul’s also specializing in a rotating selection of flavorful takes on oysters on a half shell — a simple means of honoring the heroism of the valiant bivalve counterparts to the Ninja Turtles.

Paul
1120 Pine St., 215-238-0210

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