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And your bird can sing

Upon opening, Canary Square caught considerable flak on some Web foodie forums.

Upon opening, Canary Square caught considerable flak on some Web foodie forums. One of the Jamaica Plain eatery’s items that didn’t pass muster was the Atlantic salt cod fritters, a golden battered cod bite perhaps better described as cod popovers. But whatever the handle, it’s tasty — so grab one, mop up the accompanying spicy tomato sauce and enjoy.

Canary Square — a sister restaurant to Coda Bar and Kitchen in Boston’s South End and Allston’s Common Ground Bar & Grill — took over the old Alchemist space, but it’s not a catch-all neighborhood hangout like its predecessor. Decor is minimal-industrial and the dividing wall is gone; it’s now one large room and purposed as a casual, mid-priced diner. There’s no funky bar scene a la Alchemist or live music to be had, but inventive cocktails — Rumboozle adds a bitter bite of grapefruit to a dark and stormy — great microbrews and a selection of wines create a welcoming watering hole.

Chef Marco Suarez’s (Bon Savor, Eastern Standard Kitchen) menu has some eclectic twists: Along with hearty entrees, there are sandwiches and a big Grafton cheddar burger enveloped in a black pepper brioche bun accompanied by chunky chips, rather than fries. Salt-roasted radishes are an unusual nibble. And for anyone lamenting the late, great Anthem’s deep-fried Twinkies, look no further. Indulge!

Take a bite outta this

Suarez’s “fire-roasted” salmon steak is paired with a rustic Portuguese-style tomato seafood stew, loaded with calamari and mussels and enriched with the traditional linguiça, a spicy pork sausage reminiscent of chorizo. You absolutely need to eat it with some crusty baguette!

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