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Nosh On: Hitting 'Church' every day

Spring in the northeast emerges begrudgingly, coaxing us out of hibernation with warm rays, then dashing hope with wintry storms. Daily weather shifts don’t faze Church’s new spring menu, though.

Spring in the northeast emerges begrudgingly, coaxing us out of hibernation with warm rays, then dashing hope with wintry storms. Daily weather shifts don’t faze Church’s new spring menu, though. Grilled Block Island swordfish with a bright potato and watercress salad and topped with spicy pickled ramps ($20) sits alongside a richer plate that pairs a nice cut of grass-fed beef ($22) with parsnip, gratin of new potatoes and a luscious brandy-pepper sauce ($22). And, while a creamy chocolate semifreddo scattered with Taza chocolate chips (the cocaine of confectionary; $7) is all up-up-up, raspberry jelly beignets ($6) are cozy-up comfort.

Church’s pick-and-mix menu goes beyond seasonal choice, though. It’s divided into fish, field and farm with sundries such as sliders — including a summery, fried, whole-belly clam roll ($9) and grilled flatbreads — the voluptuous wild mushroom, mozzarella and truffle oil is addictive ($6) — for bar snacks. It doesn’t take too long to work out that the swordfish is an entree, but its fish section neighbor, blackened Cajun-style Arcadian red-fish tacos with zesty cabbage ($12) works as an appetizer.

Just as the menu celebrates the mercurial spring season, patrons can snuggle up in the warmly lit bar or enjoy an airy window table. Or, should spring stop being a grump, Church’s lovely patio is ready to go.

Church has community outreach

Peas, that signature spring transitional vegetable, are sprinkled over field greens and grapes ($8) for a flavorful salad. More flavorful than many because March saw the Fenway favorite go locavore, which means ingredients arrive fresh from local farms where possible. That means free-range chicken, pigs and cows when it’s doable, too. Which translates into happier animals — or as foodies have it, tastier meat.

Church Restaurant & Nightclub
69 Kilmarnock St., Boston
617-236-7600
www.churchofboston.com


 
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