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The flavors of fall have arrived

A few weeks ago, Sam Jacobson told us, “I can’t wait to start braising.”

A few weeks ago, Sam Jacobson told us, “I can’t wait to start braising.” The Sycamore (14 S. Lansdowne Ave., Lansdowne) chef is not the only chef who has been eagerly awaiting the fall’s arrival — and with it, the season’s harvest and heartier cooking methods.

At this point, Jacobson is, indeed, braising. Recently, the BYOB’s new Tuesday night tasting menu starred wild Scottish hare braised in Guinness, accompanied by rabbit sausage, wood pigeon, caraway dumpling and the first root vegetables of the season.

Old City’s Bistro 7 (7 N. Third St.) is swinging into autumn with a worthwhile $35 tasting menu that features sure signs of fall like butternut squash, mascarpone and bacon agnolotti with sage cream, fried sage and pecorino romano. That’s followed up with slow-roasted, bacon-wrapped Atlantic salmon with a root vegetable puree and then rosemary and red wine braised beef short ribs.

At Meritage, (500 S. 20th St.), Korean fusion was the talk of the summer, with Korean tacos on Wednesdays and Korean fried chicken Thursdays. Those specials are still going strong, but the fall menu shows some more traditional flavors. The herb-crusted New Zealand lamb chops with cauliflower puree and the brined and roasted Giannone chicken with sweet potato pudding particularly stand out.

But the Asian influences aren’t all gone, as the grilled Berkshire pork chop with a mushroom and rice noodle souffle is topped with Szechwan pickled cucumbers.

– Arthur Etchells is a local food blogger. Read more at www.foobooz.com. Metro does not endorse the opinions of the author, or any opinions expressed on its pages.

 
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