The late great Chanterelle’s David Waltuck (and his famous seafood sausage!) have returned at élan, a contemporary American restaurant in Gramercy.
The food is rich — think lamb with buttery moussaka and scallops in fettuccini with duck fat, which makes another appearance in an unexpected side dish: hash browns.But it’s also eminently affordable, at $15-$32 for main courses. The cocktails are playful, more “Sex and the City” than “Mad Men.”
Expect informed but relaxed service in a classy space, and save room for the amaretto cake with sorbet duo.
43 E. 20th St.