Gansevoort Market is back, though a bit less aptly named.
The food hall had to vacate its original digs at 52 Gansevoort St., where it opened in November 2014, at the end of February to make way for a redevelopment project that will bring Pastis back to the Meatpacking District. Originally slated to reopen over Memorial Day weekend, the market made a surprise debut last Thursday in time to serve the crowds that thronged Chelsea for Pride.
The new location, 353 W. 14th St. between Eighth and Ninth avenues, is about half the size, and vendors are still moving in over the next two weeks. The market’s beloved industrial-natural motif remains, with roots winding up along its concrete columns, and there are two communal seating areas in addition to a handful of counter spots at most restaurants.
Once fully open, the market will have about 20 stalls — including a bar in the back, according to vendors -— with Mission Ceviche, Dana’s Bakery, Bangkok Bar, Luzzo’s Pizzeria, The Meatball Guys, M’o Il Gelato, Crepe Sucre and Tease Tea.
What’s new? Tacombi has switched out its taco bar minibus for the first permanent outpost of its trendy spinoff Gotham Poké. Bangkok Bar is test driving a new concept called Oppa, serving Korean barbecue next door to its own gluten-free Thai dishes and $40 Singha beer towers. Cocoa Grinder, confusingly, makes healthy-leaning sandwiches, bowls and smoothies. Luke’s Lobster is already open, while Big Gay Ice Cream and The Trufflist are still setting up shop.
While the market unpacks, we poked around this weekend and found four reasons to check it out now.
The city’s most off-the-wall doughnut shop (rememberMeat Week?) has expanded after opening only eight months ago in the West Village, and until word gets out all theEverythingand Beet-Ricotta doughnuts ($2.50, stuffed and bacon-topped ones are $2.75) can be yours without the lines. The doughnuts here are about one-third the size for optimal sampling. For Gansevoort only, “Director of Chaos” Troy Neal has resurrected the Mango Bango, whose 2.0 version has a mango glaze with a hint of nutmeg-infused rice milk and gets a crust of toasted coconut; more exclusive flavors are in the works.
Chef Jose Luis Chavez’s Peruvian ceviches were his entire focus at the old Gansevoort. In the new market, he’s introduced DIY ceviches and expanded the menu to include beef marinated in chicha de jora (beer from the Andes) and chicken steeped in a mild confit of aji amarillo pepper. “Everything here is old dishes with new techniques,” he says.
M’o Il Gelato
Also returning is this born-in-NYC Italian gelato spot with over 20 flavors and, of course, their famous hot panini gelato sandwiches. Swing by for Venetian happy hour (5-10 p.m.) at this location exclusively for a lemon sorbet-prosecco sgroppino ($9.50), made in a blender and served in a champagne flute for a fizzy citrus sipper that, at 5 percent ABV, won’t leave you teetering on the nearby High Line.
The French Block
Crepe Sucre now has an expanded selection of savory crepes (made with gluten-free buckwheat flour, in the French tradition) and a housemade marmalade of the week. Owner Fabien Desgroux has also added a coffee shop calledThe French Block, with all the standard espresso beverages as well as drip coffee and a cold brew that’s steeped for 24 hours. Coming up: chocolate pairings to encourage sitting and savoring the Central/South American blends.