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LFW: Simone Rocha, Meadham Kirchhoff, Lucas Nascimento

LFW reviews of Simone Rocha, Meadham Kirchhoff and Lucas Nascimento.

Simone Rocha - Runway: London Fashion Week SS14

11:22 a.m. Simone Rocha

This season, the Simone Rocha girl grew up. Eschewing her innocent femininity, she was rawer, more sexual and even more desirable. Pearl-embroidered stockings and pearl-encrusted collars mixed with tulle, silk, lace and crochet create an almost ecclesiastical effect. On paper this all sounds innocent, but the lace was wet-looking and the crochet appeared almost plasticized, which gave the collection a subversive undertone. A slick, moss-green leather coat with oversized lapels paired with a silk slip and stockings in a similar hue had a particular grimy but equally lusty feel. Rocha also explored new silhouettes, such as her knee-length slip dresses, which were a departure from her full-skirted signature. Factor in a haunting finale of three models shrouded in veils and layers of tulle, and you have one of London’s most evocative runway moments of the week. Chloe Mac Donnell

STY_Medham_19

3:19 p.m. Meadham Kirchhoff

With a runway scattered with red and white roses and a series of broken trellises piled up at the catwalk exit, Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff immediately set the tone for their signature romance with a dark twist. The designer duo’s show is about the experience rather than just the clothes, and with a soundtrack featuring creaking doors and a heart beating — the pace quickening as each look appeared — it was an intense, almost creepy couple of minutes. But the clothes were beautiful. This season they took their technical work to the next level, with intricate beading and lace and satin stitch detailing finished to a flawless effect. In one series, tiny floral embroidered motifs were used on silk separates over which gold corset tops were layered. There was also lots of humor, with beaded teddy bear bags, graphic-cut sunglasses and boater-style hats.CMD

Lucas Nascimento - Runway: London Fashion Week SS14

5 p.m. Lucas Nascimento

It’s my last show of the week. I’m exhausted, but there’s been so much hype surrounding Lucas Nascimento that I can’t let myself crash quite yet. Everyone who hasn’t yet left for Milan is here, and for the penultimate show of the schedule, there’s a promising turnout. The first look is an all-black ensemble: A pair of tailored trousers is teamed with a knitted bath towel-looking top wrapped around the body. The look is simple, but the result is stunning. Later, the same idea comes in sunshine yellow, which adds a pop to a selection of sharp shaped skirts and clean-cut coats. Dresses appear tiered thanks to the way the fabric is draped around the body, and skirts have high slits. This is minimalism at its best. Evaded from the distraction of print or decoration, it is perfectly clear that the Brazilian designer has pure talent. Alice tate

 
 
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