You might have thought you’d been whisked back to the Seventies on watching the latest Gucci outing. Suede toffee-colored coats, a denim blue jumpsuit, boho dresses and even multi-colored furs. No doubt designer Frida Giannini must have got a bit nostalgic revisiting her inner Seventies child with this collection, as would front-rower and one-time boho girl Kate Moss.
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It was party on for Versace’s girls in bold mesh cocktail dresses with flashes of flesh exposed through sheer fabric, cut-outs and crop tops. Even the more conservative pieces – short and long black skirts – were sliced and slashed into sassy evening ensembles. Meanwhile, the house’s Medusa motif and rings were reinvigorated and reworked into graphic prints. The show had all the house’s bold tradition and heritage with 21st century attitude.
Dolce & Gabbana
The duo looked to Spain by way of Sicily for their latest collection. And of course you can’t ‘travel’ to the Iberian Peninsula without referencing bullfighting and Matadors, specifically a red jacket paired with a crisp white shirt. The only minimal piece amongst an array of carnation prints, embroidery, lacing, bejeweling and polka dot flamenco skirts and dresses. And for the finale, the models paraded out in high-waisted shorts, those crisp white shirts and flats. It certainly got hearts racing to rates worthy of a bullfighting matador.
It was creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga's first ready-to-wear collection for the house synonymous with minimalism. If Paglialunga had any concerns about taking the brand forward, he certainly didn't show it with his modern take on preppy style and sportswear. The woman he had in mind? A young adult who is just making her mark on the world. A woman who wears polos from high school but who can also be subtly sexy in clothes like a leather orange skirt with a deep, provocative split. But for the most part it was androgyny that won through with beautifully wrapped skirts, oversized jumpers (sometimes worn over a shirt) and the clean, crisp skinny pants and bermudas – a key item for next season – which were just the right side of girly.
If you were looking for the total opposite of Jil Sander's androgynous minimalism, then step into Roberto Cavalli's world. It was all prettiness and romanticism. The kind of thing that Heidi Klum sitting front row might well wear on a balmy evening in Saint-Tropez. It was typically extravagant Cavalli: Seventies-style accordion pleats and psychedelic prints with trademark animal prints – zebra and leopard, which were occasionally thrown together. Towards the end of the show, the mood became more subdued with black dresses and skirts teamed with sharply tailored jackets adorned with pure white embroidery. And last season's grunge trend carries over into ss'15 with Cavalli's take on destroyed denim.
The house is never one to follow the rules, and this season was no different. The very Prada-esque clash of prints brought different eras face-to-face on the catwalk: Seventies geometric meets Marie Antoinette's brocade with knee-high socks that felt reminiscent of the Sixties. That said, the mash-up of decades left the audience wondering whether they could take the collection from the runway into real-life but then again, Prada always seems to turn the unconventional into a must-have fashion thing.