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Friday
4:50 p.m.
It’s been a good season for surprise model cameos on the runway. Kristen Stewart, Naomi Campbell, Gisele Bundchen, Nadege, and now (yes!) Miranda Kerr opening the show in a yeti-sized fur gilet and slouchy, ribbed knits. Her presence has added instant excitement and will no doubt make this show one of the most buzzed about in social media, which will in turn draw eyes to a lineup of clothes that is the strongest yet from the house’s still relatively new designer Geraldo da Conceicao. The collection’s success boils down to the fact that he’s managed to marry his vision with the house’s codes after two seasons in which the two seemed to cancel the other out. The emphasis on knits and sense of humor present in a series of dresses emblazoned with “Moi” are classic Rykiel, but there’s a new contemporary, urban polish here as well. Best of all, everything looks so incredibly cozy and easy to wear, just exactly the kind of clothes I needed in glacial New York earlier this month. There are enormous Mongolian fur coats, relaxed, softly tailored trousers, oversized waffle knit sweaters and lithe, lean skirt suits, all in the warmest wools and cashmeres and all in a neutral, wear-with-anything color palette of ivory, beige and camel. They add up to the sartorial equivalent of comfort food, the kind of clothes you want to wrap yourself in on a snow day.
The scene
Nathalie and Sonia Rykiel, joined by French celebrities and power editors front row.
The mood
Classic Rykiel ideas (the emphasis on knitwear, the sense of humour, courtesy of those ‘Moi’ emblazoned dresses) meet a new, contemporary polish.
The major trends
Relaxed slouchy shapes, shaggy outerwear, textured three-dimensional surfaces and midi-length skirts.
What this will mean for your wardrobe
When it comes to knitwear and outerwear, the bigger the better.
