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New York Fashion Week: Hood By Air fall 2015

There were no Great Danes, no youth choir, no dance-offs at Shayne Oliver's Hood By Air presentation yesterday. This time, the focus was all on the clothes (well, and the flesh-colored stockings covering the models' faces, and the weird padlocked grilles on their teeth, but, hey, it's HBA).

Oliver took basics like cargo pants, puffer coats, polos, and striped mohair sweaters and deconstructed them beyond recognition, morphing them into new, hybridized garments — some recalling the early experiments of Olivier Theyskens or Haider Ackermann.

In a way, HBA has aways been about elevating streetwear to the realm of high art, but here the stakes felt richer: Witness the uber-luxe fur bomber that closed the show. Can HBA become a bonafide Euro-style luxury brand? It will be interesting to see.

Trends: wide-legged cargos, bondage pants, high slits, logo-ed puffers, furs and sweatshirts

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