By and large, skirt and dress hemlines are considerably higher this season. So it’s interesting to watch Marco Zanini mine the mid 20thcentury’s fuller, longer shapes even more. This collection doesn’t feel trendy — but it is directional, a term fashion types use to describe clothing that influences the course of trends and looks more at home in a magazine editorial than the average girl’s closet. That mostly comes down to his plays on texture and ornamentation. He basically decorated his dresses to the hilt; there was elaborate beading, shimmery embroidery, glossy micro-pleating, crinkly textured ruffles, and crystal embellished slippers. Speaking of those shoes, they also came tricked out in feathers, which dusted the floor like a mop, before sweeping their way across my Instagram feed, forever changing the feminine slipper. It was all a touch over the top, as if he’s only speaking to that tiny subculture of editors and celebrities bold enough to wear a canary yellow feathered shoe. And still, I can see a lot of Zanini’s ideas trickling down into our closets: a high street version of his crystal embellished flats and dresses would fly off shelves and racks.
Rochas: Paris Fashion Week
Our review of the Spring 2014 Rochas show.