Helmut Lang - Runway - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2014
Friday

7:15 p.m.
Downtown in Chelsea, which has become the unofficial headquarters for New York Fashion Week, temperatures along the Westwide Highway have dropped to 20 degrees, so cold that people are literally running, the faster to get out of this hellish weather. Inside the Helmut Lang show, it’s warm and relatively calm. I kill time with my seat mate Caroline Issa, the perennially cool fashion director of Tank magazine and J.Crew campaign star, by talking about work and her most recent campaign for Jenna Lyons, who just recently tapped her to make bangers & mash for the brand’s site. ‘But I can’t cook!’ Caroline laughs. http://jcrew.tumblr.com/post/65903559594/in-the-kitchen-with-caroline-issa-the-montreal Nevertheless, it’s the end of the day and a plate of hot food sounds good right about now.

7:30 p.m.
Nicole and Michael Colovos’ collection for Helmut Lang was all crisp, wintry minimalism, but they worked the brand’s codes through texture and layering. For example, the opening look — a precisely cut tan blazer, nubby ivory sweater, and crimson, slouchy trousers — is classic Helmut Lang, and yet the use of color and surface feels very right now. It’s only day two and it’s already become apparent that soft, touchable textures , such as a shaggy cream coloured fur coat worn over tan, leather leggings, will be a thing for fall ’14. It’s the sartorial equivalent of comfort food. You can’t hide from the cold under your duvet all day, but you can wrap yourself in these oversized, nubby, warm things instead — and look chic and polished in the process.

 

The major trends
Texture, layering, and more texture

The scene
Serious editors, buyers and stylists with a few bloggers mixed in. No superficial photo-ops here.

What this will mean for your wardrobe six months from now
The shaggier the coat and the nubbier the sweater, the better.

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