The Burberry Prorsum show is as much about the celeb-spotting as the clothes these days. This time around was no different with an all-star front row made up of acting, music and modelling A-listers like Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne, Naomie Harris, Lily Donaldson and Paloma Faith, serenaded by angsty-sounding singer-songwriter James Bay.Youthfulness was at the core of the collection entitled “The Birds and the Bees”, with sheer fabric swathed around the models’ bodies in a bandage-like fashion overlain with denim jackets, finished in shearling and ostrich feather trims.But it was the fresh spring spin on the house’s heritage stalwart – the trench coat in hand-screened flora and fauna – which truly blossomed.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label
Vivienne Westwood turned the runway into a political rally for the “Yes” campaign in the upcoming Scottish referendum on the nation’s independence from the UK.The clothes were as outspoken as her politics: oversized Seventies-style shirt collars and shoulders, textured leggings and hats that wouldn’t look out of place in the French Revolution — apt coming from the anarchic Grand Dame.Nowadays her Red Label show is less controversial than her politics but the dramatic makeup and expert draping – arguably some of the best in the business – makes her one of the bastions of London Fashion Week.
“The faded glamour of the British seaside” was the romanticized theme for the Topshop Unique show. You’d do well to discover those past glories through the sea-salt rotted piers and cheap arcade gaming shops, but the high street fashion house managed to find something more cheery amongst the wreckage. Indeed the clothes were bold in cut and (primary) colors: slipdresses, babydolls, and ruffled short shorts came with striped wedges. Clothes for fun-loving summertime party girls, you might say, like Cara Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn who led the promenade parade.
The Scottish designer tied his collection together with rope… quite literally. Cord was worked into dresses, hems and even drawstrings on a pair of bordeaux-colored leather track pants.The color palette was subdued, almost wintry, perhaps in part in respectful memory of his mentor, the Central Saint Martins professor Louise Wilson, who died recently. But there was still excitement, albeit more pared-down than in seasons past with “controlled explosions” of tulle from collars and hems.Kane has reason to be more cautious or rather commercially aware at this point in his career: his first flagship store opens in London next year and this is the inaugural collection to fall under that banner.
The designer’s Spring ’15 outing was easy like a Paul Smith Sunday afternoon. The clothes were made for lounging: relaxed tailoring, blouses and floaty linen tops in taupe, blush, and cornflower blue.Here, the mannish tailoring that’s quintessentially Paul Smith translated into deconstructed jackets and oversized culottes. There was femininity too with sheer panels on skirts and fringing on tank tops — clothes you could take from the catwalk to the commute. After all, who doesn’t want a bit of comfort in their life?