We have the show reviews, front row sightings and trends you need to know from across the pond.
The biggest society coup: Temperley’s Pippa Middleton get
P-Middy, caused a small frenzy when she perched her Google-busting bottom front row at Temperley, alongside Rosario Dawson and Peaches Geldof, among others. Alice Temperley is in essence an aristocrat designing for London’s posh set. She looked to the elegance of Grace Kelly à la “High Society” and movie stills of Michelle Pffeifer in “Scarface” for her spring show. Those disparate references translated into flowing jumpsuits and kimono jackets that came in a mix of floral prints and solid neutrals such as champagne, ivory and nude. Meanwhile her dresses, the meat and potatoes of any Temperley collection, came draped or in billowing shapes that swung majestically. It was high society alright but there were risqué elements too (those would be the “Scarface” parts) such as slits in dresses that rose high beyond the thigh.
The new name to know: J.W. Anderson
The Brit has only been designing women’s wear for a little over a year, but is already on the tongues of nearly every major editor. The biggest selling point: Unusually constructed clothing that boasts rarefied craftsmanship, at affordable prices. Keep an eye out for his patchworked leather, mesh and cotton jackets and trousers, which are sure to be some of spring’s most wanted, come 2012. But he’s still got some room for growth, as made clear by a series of unfortunate dresses made out of cardigan sweaters.
The best footwear: Paul Smith
His collection was filled with covetable tailored jackets and trousers in a range of fits (high waisted and baggy, slim and cropped, long and slouchy.) But his shoes are what really stole the show. They came in all manner of color and texture ways (ponyskin, suede, leather, neon yellow, blue, leopard print, you name it) and make a good alternative for women who will want to add the season’s trendy colors to their wardrobes in small doses.
Yellow (Mulberry, Holly Fulton, Nicole Farhi)
Sporty (J.W. Anderson, Julien Macdonald, Unique)
White cotton (Peter Jensen, Nicole Farhi, Issa)