Labels such as Burberry and Cavalli opted for monochromatic collections, but Jil Sanders opted for some neon too — showing seductive flashes of colour hidden under a black skirt or within undulating black folds, on Day 2 at Milan Fashion Week.
D&G was fun and decadent fashion as escapism. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana transformed the runway into an opera hall, with signs that read “La Traviata 1853” sitting on either side. At certain moments the title of the classic Verdi opera, which means “The Woman Who Strayed” in English, appeared across the bodice on gowns and cocktail dresses. The collection was melodramatic in a cheeky way, clothes to channel your inner courtesan in. —Kenya Hunt
Burberry Prorsum, on the other hand, felt decadent in a completely different way. Christopher Bailey centered the collection around the ideas of “modern nostalgia” and “great British icons,” using lots of tweed, tartan and floral prints in the process. The collection was chic, but had a low-maintenance sense of comfort to it. His full, pleated tweed skirts and oversized sweaters are the kind of items that are easy to wear and look great on just about everyone. Bailey also wins the Best Fur That Doesn’t Look Like It Was Stolen From Your Grandmother’s Closet prize. Meanwhile, his rubber sole biker boots are sure to be hits. —Kenya Hunt
It may have been the last show of the evening in my schedule for the day, but I found it to be the most energizing, giving me a third wind. Raf Simons opened the show with a series of dresses and coats in nude, white, navy and grey — with a burst of red — that featured his trademark purity of line. The piano score was calming. This was his tribute to the brand’s founder. But the unexpected came with a lighting change and techno music score that ushered in a series of equally beautifully constructed dresses in architectural shapes, which were inspired by the French ceramist Pol Chambost. The best part was how he used a series of electric colours seductively such as the brightest yellow lining peeking out from underneath a flared black skirt or neon orange inside black undulating folds on the back of a dress. —Kenya Hunt
From metallic fringed flapper-style dresses, to velvet multi-tiered frocks in jewel tones, Ferretti showed a wide array of looks for evening. Whatever your nighttime needs (an Edwardian coat dress? Sheer wide-leg pants?) she created something for it. But the freshest look was the opening suit which featured a wool skirt paired with a chiffon colour-blocked blouse and tailored jacket. —Kenya Hunt
The brand might lose its funding due to its backer declaring bankruptcy, but the dark economic future did not dampen a beautiful collection featuring voluminous sweaters, fluid trousers, Victorian collared blouses and evening gowns with razor sharp folds. —Kenya Hunt
Motorcycle jackets with fur lapels, miniskirts with grommetted asymetrical hemlines and studded sweaters gave a cool, rockstar edge to this nearly entirely black collection. It was a departure for Cavalli who did not show a single, flowing animal print gown. —Kenya Hunt