You’d be hard pressed to find a city that sums up fashion’s current state of constant change than New York, where its biannual fashion week continues to go through a makeover with decamping labels, new transplants and more. Here, the names, shows and dates to know. Tommy Hilfiger decamps for L.A. Rag & Bone turns 15 Mansur Gavriel to debut women’s wear
As much as we must talk about who will be on the NYFW calendar this season, we should also talk about who won’t be. There will be no DKNY, due to its sale to G-III from LVMH and subsequent departure of creative directors Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osbourne. Or Rodarte, following sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy’s decision to take its collection to Paris. But most notably, NYFW will be devoid of Tommy Hilfiger, who this week takes his See Now Buy Now extravaganza to Venice Beach in Los Angeles. Following his two-day party of a show last season, featuring Gigi Hadid, his presence will be missed. The brand will again release its second TommyXGigi collection to consumers right after the show.
Because fashion loves an anniversary, Marcus Wainwright will celebrate the 15th anniversary of Rag & Bone with a weekend-long exhibition rather than a conventional runway show. Expect appearances from a few surprise famous names.
Raf Simons makes his big Calvin Klein debut
It’s not all departures for New York. Raf Simons, the former creative director of Dior and Jil Sander — and one of the most revered designers in the business — makes his big debut as chief creative officer of Calvin Klein. Not only will he bring some much-needed international gravitas to the city’s show calendar, his show will be the most anticipated of the entire runway season.
The CFDA stands with Planned Parenthood Kanye West returns
Yes, it’s hard to believe — what with the PR nightmare and major fallout with the critics that happened at Yeezy’s show last season, when models collapsed from heat exhaustion during his outdoor show. It was literally a hot mess. No matter. The rapper turned designer wants a do-over, for Yeezy Season 5. Fifth time’s a charm? The Proenza Schouler NYFW show will be its last
It’s hard to imagine a New York Fashion Week without a Proenza Schouler show. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have long been the city’s hometown design heroes. But next season, they will pick up and go to Paris, where they plan to begin showing during the January and July couture season, along with Vetements and Rodarte.
Trend alert: The Council for Fashion Designers of America is distributing hot-pink pins that state “Fashion Stands with Planned Parenthood” during NYFW. More than 40 CFDA members (including Diane von Furstenberg, Prabal Gurung and Public School) will wear these pins and incorporate them into their runway looks, and the organization plans to give out even more pins to guests, models and press passing to and from shows throughout the week (Feb. 9-16).
Each pin features a magnetic backing (as to not puncture fabric, of course) and comes with a card explaining Planned Parenthood’s mission statement, the importance of its services and urging wearers to donate. While the CFDA won’t be donating to Planned Parenthood directly via this initiative, it hopes the awareness will show a representation of solidarity across the industry.
If you aren’t lucky enough to receive a pin via show invite or handout, WWD notes you may be able to snag one at select fashion week locations (think: Skylight Clarkson Square) starting Feb. 9.
— Rachel Raczka
