Neta's savory "oyster" of Wagyu beef, uni and a squid ink rice cracker.Michael Tulipan

Oysters are delicious, but some serious texture issues have made us leery — it only takes one gritty bivalve to spoil the party. So we’re thrilled about this savory “oyster” entry on the omakase menu at Neta.

The Greenwich Village’s modern Japanese restaurant changed concepts this spring, becoming omakase-focused and turning out a fine-dining menu by Per Se and Le Bernardin alum Sungchul Shim. The dish retains all its umami goodness, with a dollop of uni and the rice cracker “shell” made with squid ink, but inside is a bite of panko-fried Wagyu beef in ginger-kurozu sauce.

It’s a lovely, slightly unbelievable bite that will seriously satisfy when fall blows in but you’re still longing for a taste of summer. And starting this week, Neta is launching lunch service Friday through Sundaywith a10-course omakase menu that includes this dishfor$95.

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